Chef Anthony Marini
While my clients have me inundated with work and deadlines, my food friends are donating stories, recipes and tales to keep you entertained. They are as diverse in their backgrounds as they are in their subject matter, so I hope you’ll jump in and give them a read.
Today’s guest poster is chef and restaurant consultant, Anthony Marini:
Well, it’s official. I have started writing a book. I’m working with a longtime friend and writer to compile some great stories about the trials and tribulations of owning a food business. Being a chef, then restaurant owner, then consultant has given me some incredible stories about the rights and wrongs of the restaurant business. Now, it’s not a cookbook, nor do I proceed to profess that my word is law, but for anyone who has used an inheritance or their 401K to finance their dream, only to find to that it’s not the sexy idea they thought it was, this will be quite a read.
In doing some of my research and looking back at some of my ups and downs, I theorize about what I wanted, what I didn’t and what I would do all over again and with the economy, I find myself doing that with my feelings on food. Now, I can tell you about some of my most memorable meals and they all involve tasting menus. Whether it be the eight courses on my 34th birthday at Gordon Ramsay at the London Hotel in NYC or the 15 courses at Tru in Chicago just before I had my son, Steven, every bite, every new taste and every feeling I had upon leaving said restaurant will haunt my dreams for many years to come.
BUT……..Those days are over! So let’s talk about some food we can eat now and not feel the pinch or price of enjoying it.
Here are some thoughts to consider. Slow cooking, even in summer is a great and easy way to go and a food processor is one of the best things you can use all year round.
Braised Summer Pork Shank
serves 4
3 pound pork shank (fresh ham)
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 fennel bulb, ferny tops and root end removed, sliced cross-wise
8-10 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon coriander
1/2 teaspoon fresh ginger
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1/2 cup red wine
1/2 cup lime juice with zest of whole lime
1/4 cup loosely packed freshly chopped Italian parsley, basil, or a combination, divided
½ head of white cabbage, shredded
Cilantro Salsa Verde (recipe to follow)
sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Crème Fraiche (recipe to follow)
Preheat oven to 250° F.
With a very sharp knife, make cross-hatch cuts, only deep enough to split the skin, across the pads of fat on the pork, in a grid-like design.
Heat the oil over high heat in a 4-quart casserole or a Dutch oven. Add the pork a cook a minute or two on each side, turning carefully with tongs. Remove and set aside.
Lower the heat to medium, add a splash more oil if necessary, then sauté garlic and fennel with salt until garlic begins to show color then add spices. Add seared pork back to the pot; pour over tomatoes, wine, and lime juice. Cover tightly with corresponding lid or a layer of foil.
Cook for 2 - 3 1/2 hours. It is done when the meat pulls easily away from the bone. Serve with a sprinkling chopped fresh herbs, shredded white cabbage, Cilantro Salsa Verde, salt, and pepper and a dollop of Crème Fraiche.
Cilantro Salsa Verde
1 bunch rinsed cilantro
1 bunch rinsed Italian leaf parsley
2 tablespoons fresh peeled ginger
Juice of 2 limes
1 ½ cups canola oil
Put the first four items in the food processor, add the oil then season with salt only to taste
Crème Fraiche
1 cup whipping cream mixed with 2 tablespoons buttermilk in food processor for 2 minutes. Place glass jar and cover. Let stand at room temperature (about 70 degrees F.) for 8 to 24 hours, or until thickened. Stir well and refrigerate. Use within 10 days.
Crème Fraiche can be purchased at gourmet grocery or specialty stores. I believe you can find it at Trader Joe's and Wegmans.
Chef Anthony Marini:
Anthony Marini is a chef and restaurant consultant. His is the principal of The AMI Group, a firm that handles and consults on a variety of restaurant and food service concerns. You can contact Anthony via phoe at 301.377.4004 or e-mail, anthony@chefanthonymarini.com. Learn more about him at www.chefanthonymarini.com
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Comments
I love using cumin and find that not too many cooks or chefs in the States use this wonderfully flavored and aromatic spice...and I do use my slow cooker often - summer or winter - so this recipe will be tried.
BTW, the chimichurri type salsa verde will be made, but with no cilantro....I prefer to add a bit of garlic and loads of parsley and even a bit of watercress...Ginger...YES!
Go right ahead Sonia and use what you like for the Salsa Verde. I just happen to love Cilantro. Chives and Baby Arugula make a good substitute as well.
Cheers!!!
Thanks for the great sounding recipes.
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