Alliances over craft beer are often seen as absolutes. Any involvement or favor toward the corporate brewers is viewed as “traitorous,” and consumers must support small brewers at all costs. My own review of a corporate product months ago generated interesting feedback from both sides.
Such is the case surrounding the Widmer Brothers Brewery of Portland, Oregon. This brewery has grown to become the largest brewer in that state, and is a sizeable regional brewery in the Northwest equivalent to Spoetzl or Samuel Adams. (They recently merged with Redhook Ale Brewery of Seattle and assumed a new name but kept both brands of beer.)
Widmer Brothers has come under criticism by some because Anheuser-Busch owns a minority share in the brewery. Although the ownership is solely on paper and Anheuser-Busch has no influence over the company, Widmer Brothers is viewed by some as “crossing the line.” Personally, I could care less about these politics; only the quality of the end products matter.
Overall, most of Widmer Brothers’ beers are rather mainstream and unremarkable. However, one new arrival to North Texas is worth noting, the Drifter Pale Ale. Pale ales are all about a pleasant balance between malt and hops, hoppier than an amber ale yet not so hoppy as an IPA.
Drifter hits this balance nicely. The light-copper beer has a sharp grapefruity aroma, and the taste reveals a light, biscuity malt base. On top of the malt sweetness is more juicy grapefruit with just a hint of pine resin. This pale ale favors the hoppy side of the spectrum (as most American versions do) but not enough to be called an IPA.
Pale ales are popular middle-ground beers and pair well with any event and any style of food. At 5.7% ABV, Drifter is slightly strong for the style but remains full-bodied and easy to drink.
Availability: Widmer Brothers products are very widely distributed, found in even ordinary supermarkets and liquor stores. Taps may be difficult to find, as they are often the first replaced due to their widespread status.
Cheers!
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