There’s a bitter irony to bitters. These herbal essences have been around for at least two-hundred years, and without them, we wouldn’t have cocktails. Bitters are to cocktails like silicon is to computers. They’re strong alcohols (30-45% ABV) flavored with various herbs, fruits, and spices. The funny thing is they’re not regulated as stringently as other spirits: in the U.K., minors can purchase Angostura Bitters.
In the early 1800’s, bitters were considered medicinal, and their various formulae were closely guarded family secrets. They were purported to cure almost any ailment, from malaria to rheumatism. During the California Gold Rush of 1849 and subsequent settling of the west, many mining camps and towns lacked basic facilities like clean water or experienced doctors. Bitters came to the rescue, both as a body palliative and a libation purifier. Remember the Western archetype of the “Snake Oil Salesman”? Purveyor of bitters, and poor knock-offs.
As saloons grew in popularity across America, bartenders began to add a few drops of bitters to flavor the straight whiskeys, gins, and bourbons they were pouring. Enterprising and creative men like Jerry Thomas would collect, invent, and publish their drink recipes, and thus the birth of the cocktail. In fact, the original meaning of the word “cocktail” meant a spirit mixed with bitters. If you had a hard day at work, either tolling in a coal mine or typing in a cubicle maze, and slouch into a bar where a good bartender makes you a delicious, classic Manhattan, you’ve already experienced the magic of aromatic bitters. It may not have cured your gout, but it certainly made you feel better, right?
In 1906, the U.S. Food & Drug Act was passed to stop false claims of products “curing” anything, and the bitters market was severely damaged. It was already weak when Prohibition came around in 1920, finishing off many of the numerous bitters manufacturers. When Prohibition was repealed in 1933, only Siegert’s (Angostura) Bitters remained commercially viable. For the next seventy years or so, various manufacturers tried to continue or make a go of production, mostly with failure (Abbott’s) but some with success (Peychaud’s).
When the New Cocktail Renaissance began about 10-20 years ago, bartender-investigators and liquor detectives began digging out old cocktail recipe books and rejuvenating the old tricks and drinks, including bitters. To meet this demand, entrepreneurs brought to market myriad varieties of both new recipes and retro-reproductions. Besides Angostura, which has remained as the top seller, we also have Fee Brothers, Regan’s, and the enfant terrible of the industry, The Bitter Truth, among others.
Founded in 2006 by two German mixologists, Stephan Berg and Alexander Hauck, The Bitter Truth is winning awards and quickly moving onto the shelves of top bars. Celery Bitters recently won the “Best New Product” award at the 2010 Tales of the Cocktail, and their homage to the iconic bartender, “Jerry Thomas’s Own Decanter Biters” won gold at this year’s Los Angeles International Wine & Spirits Competition.
Think of bitters like plutonium flavor drops. A little goes a long way, and can add just enough hint of enigmatic nostalgia to differentiate your drink from the standard taste. They also get you at least to second base with virgin cocktails; a few blops can mimic the flavor of a true cocktail without the effects of alcohol—but be aware that bitters are alcoholic, there just isn’t really enough to have an intoxicating effect.
The slideshow below contains images of old bitters advertisements and most of The Bitter Truth product line plus related recipes. The Bitter Truth is hard to find in Los Angeles (pun intended), but some places carry it, such as The Wine House. Other types, such as Angostura, is available everywhere, just look for the small bottle. A 200ml bottle runs about $15, but lasts quite a long time.
More info: The BItter Truth debuts Creole Bitters
Disclosure: I was comped a party pack of samples of the five Bitter Truth bitters. And they do make a party.
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