Ok let's get one thing straight: I’m no princess when it comes to burgers. I could care less if the thing comes on a child-size Dixie plate or a silver platter, I just care that it’s done right. And in my opinion, it should always be done right.
I’d heard so many great things about Bongo Burger that upon going all the way to Berkeley just to check the place out, I was about as giddy as I‘d ever been about a hamburger. I came out of seeing a long movie at the California theater on Kittredge, and I was starving. It had also been more than two months since I’d had a burger anywhere outside of my own home. Though there were plenty of delicious-sounding vegetarian and Mediterranean options on the menu, I was completely seduced by their promise of Niman Ranch beef, and ordered the “mushroom burger” (mushrooms plus Swiss cheese), while faithful dining companion, Isaura, ordered the “all-american burger” (cheddar plus beef) and fries.
It only took about ten minutes for all of our food to arrive. The burgers were all but exploding out of their tiny paper packages (seriously, the sheer size of that “mushroom burger” made my knees shake), and the fries were glistening, still piping hot from being pulled out of the frialator just moments before (ok it‘d also been a while since I‘d had a French fry). It was nearing the end of the night for these cooks, and yet all the ingredients tasted exceptionally fresh. No wilted lettuce or leathery tomatoes here; and after a couple of steamy minutes sandwiched between hot meat and toppings, a river of cheese was slowly making its way down all sides of the massive patties.
The first bite was great: juicy, meaty, cheesy, crispy, all the things you’d want in a burger. But upon closer inspection (I sampled a piece of the meat patty by itself), it became clear that the meat was gravely under seasoned. I’m not going to lie, it had a beefier taste and texture than most other restaurant burgers I’ve had, but I’m not sure I could say much more than that. After a few more bites, it was the stellar, fresh-from-the-bakery quality sesame seed bun that stepped up as the star of this show. Perfectly crusty out the outside, while moist and chewy on the inside, with more crunchy sesame seeds than any burger bun I‘d ever seen in my life. Truly, it was the stuff dreams are made of.
And really, when all else fails, nothing beats a fried potato. The crinkle-cut fries were crisp and flavorful right down to the last bite: a crackling shell just waiting to bust open and reveal fluffy potato insides. In the end, the massive burgers lacked a vital component: flavor, and literally left something to be desired. Something spicy, something herbaceous. I think I’ll be back for the falafel.
Bongo Burger
2154 Center Street
Berkeley, CA 94704
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