The Alta Cucina Society in New York became host to some of Italy's most fresh white wines from the Veneto region this evening. Soave, an uncommon dry white wine primarily made of Garganega and Trebbiano grapes is today among some of Italy's most refined wines and has even started to cultivate a stronger following here in the United States.
With its rigorous new production standard, which encompass everything from trellising to crop management, Soave offers great complexity in an easy-to-drink, food-friendly way. There are three different types of Soave:
• Soave DOC, which includes the sub-zones of Soave Classico and Soave Colli Scaligeri
• Soave Superiore DOCG (2001) which also includes wines with the “Riserva” designation
• Recioto di Soave DOCG (1998) a dessert wine not often found in the US at present.
There are about 6,500 hectares under vine in Soave, extending from the southern slopes of the Lessini Mountains on the southern margin of the Italian Alps to the alluvial plain below. The climate is influenced by the Mediterranean’s warm temperatures but has less humidity than surrounding coastal areas due to its elevated location. In the western part of Soave, the soils are calcareous, while in the eastern part, known as the Alpone Valley, soils are composed of volcanic basalt. The former generally enhances the delicate, floral qualities of Soave, while the latter lends itself to fuller, spicier wines.
Showcased within this evening's tasting included a variety of boutique style vineyards, like:
- Sandro de Bruno -- originating in the slopes of Mt. Calvarina, this vineyard is harvested on volcanic soil which give the wines a certain complexity and mineral richness. Fermented in big oak barrels, their 2007 Cangrande Soave Superiore DOCG combines 90% Garganega with 10% Chardonnay, and despite the overpowering ratio, this wine exhibits more Chardonnay-like characteristics including hints of crisp summer fruits coupled with a distinct dryness. Solo, this wine doesn't strike as a "must-have" but when best is pairing with sharp cheeses, like Parmesan. It gives a nice balance to the experience.
- Rocca Sveva - situated near the city of Verona, and entertaining the upcoming film "Letters to Juliet", this vineyard produces a medal-winning Soave Classico DOC that boasts delicious summer fruit flavors, like peach, apricot and citrus. It offers a luminous straw color, a blend of floral and honeysuckle on the nose.
- Corte Moschina - located at the foot of Lessini Hills, this vineyard produces their i Tiari Soave which is a late harvest wine (pulled in late October/November) and fermented for one year in stainless steel with wood. Different from other Soave wines, this particular variety blends floral and earthy notes and offers a hint of spice on the palette.
Despite their differing attributes, they all share a commonality - a fresh, delicate character with very aromatic qualities. Soave's ample complexity and structure make it enjoyable for any point in the year and will rarely will break the wallet (with an average range of about $12-15 bottle for the items above).
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