Susan asks:
This set was bought it in Tampa in the late 1940s or early 1950s. It arrived in Port Tampa on a ship from Cuba.

AW says: That's a lovely Parlor set, I believe it's been reupholstered although it's been tastefully done. It looks to have the original finish, so points for that. Since it's such a grand set it will not be the easiest thing to sell, but when you find a buyer that appreciates it, it should bring a nice price. My prices are for the set. I'm sure it's European, most likely English and made of Mahogany. It's kind of a transitional style set coming of of the Empire era and into the Victorian era.

Date range: 1850s

Prudence asks:
Hello, Wally.
What is this? I thought it might be a prairie bonnet chest as it is rather primitive in its pine construction. The top lifts to reveal a 9”H x 34”W x 19”D storage area. There are six drawers. The top two are 3-1/2" deep x 15” wide. The top of the lower four drawers is 1-1/2" deep x 30-1/2" wide. The other 3 lower drawers are 2-1/2" deep x 30-1/2" wide. All drawers have faceted glass knobs. Drawers are not dovetailed but joined with a series of small primitive nails. The overall chest dimensions are 34"W x 33-1/2"H x 19"D. It has not been restored.
Thank you for your prompt appraisal response to my inquiry.

AW says: It is indeed a field or "Prairie"chest. Whether it's specifically for bonnets or not is debatable. These chests were often well made and simple in design for a multitude of practical uses. The main idea of these was to be used as functional storage during travel, that is, they are not as temporary as a trunk, but not as permanent as home furniture, rather something in between. You often see them in military style, which this one is not. Usually any piece of case furniture has it's value increase if it has a lift top such as yours.
Date range: 1900s

Retail value: $375-$425(top price)

Wholesale value: $250
(The midrange price you could expect to achieve at a well advertised live auction. The price that is most often realized)

Quick sale value: $175
The price your likely to get if you have to sell your item immediately and your prospective customer is aware of this.

Common trade terminology: Field chest of drawers, lift top Prairie chest or field chest.

In most cases, I believe it would be beneficial for your to give the prospective buyer a link to this page, and to bookmark it via your favorite bookmarking service.


Care and storage tips: Of course one should not try to re-finish this.

1.  Remember the first rule in investing in anything, "well bought is half sold".  It's easy to make a profit if you've purchase the item at the right price.
2. Avoid trendy items that are "made to be collectible". Items such as Beanie Babies, Franklin Mint collectibles and such, generally have no staying power. They are hot for a short time, but when they cool down you can't get more than $10.00 for a box full of them.
3. Buy out of market. Seek out furniture dealers that buy house lots, ask them if they have any jewelry for sale.  Find out if the local heavy equipment auction has any furniture included in the sale, they usually do. There are many ways to shop out of market, to use an old Yogi Berra quote, "hit em where they ain't". By shopping out market, you eliminate much of the competition and can often buy at fire sale prices.
4. If your considering laying out serious money for an item and you have doubts about it's authenticity, get it authenticated or appraised. With the Internet there is no excuse for getting duped. There are many online appraisal services that are very good, fast and inexpensive. I offer an authentication in 24 hours and an appraisal in 3 days. There are several other good ones available.
   
5. Learn and practice a few of the basic negotiation tactics. I can think of no other business where the art of negotiation is used as much as the antiques/collectibles trade. Without a good foundation in haggling skills, you WILL overpay.
6. Study the people in the business at least twice as much as you study the merchandise.
7. When learning about the merchandise, learn rules of thumb and generalities, the detailed knowledge will follow.  As an auctioneer and appraiser I can valuate millions of items because I'm well versed with styles, colors, quality and trends of items. If you know that Aqua Marine and Tomato Red are very popular colors for almost any collectible from the 1950s-60s, you have good information on thousands of items just with that one rule of thumb.
8. If it looks too good to be true, it may actually be that good. I realize this counters common wisdom, but in the antiques world, specialized knowledge can give you incredible leverage. IE: To the untrained eye, Grueby Faience co. pottery may look ugly, but most pieces will bring thousands at auction. This is a business you have to be willing to take risks in. Be careful, but not timid.
9. Buy in large lots. This is my favorite safety net. When you buy in volume from a seller that wants you to "take it all", you can rarely lose money. Of course you want to make sure you have the time and space to deal with the volume. As well as being a financially safe move, buying estate lots, collections etc. is the best way to learn the business quickly and it's a blast!
10. Learn the terminology, nicknames and slang of the trade, it will help immensely when buying and selling. Then learn how to use this knowledge discreetly. Sometimes it pays to show off your education, sometime is pays to keep it vested.
    

Date range: 1910s-20s

Retail value: $250-$400 (top price)

Wholesale value: $100-$150 (The midrange price you could expect to achieve at a well advertised live auction. The price that is most often realized)

Quick sale value: $75-$100 The price your likely to get if you have to sell your item immediately and your prospective customer is aware of this.

Common trade terminology: Ship's Wheel, Captains Wheel

Nicknames or slang terms: N/A In most cases, I believe it would be beneficial for your to give the prospective buyer a link to this page, and to bookmark it via your favorite bookmarking service.

 Care and storage tips: These are meant to take a beating so there's not really any special care instructions, I would not do anything to it other than a dusting if needed.

AW says: The style of roll top desk you have is called a C-Roll as opposed to an s-roll. The s-rolls are more popular as they're more aesthetically pleasing. The first American patent for a roll top was issued to Abner Cutler, of Cutler Desk of Buffalo, NY in 1850. Your desk is later than that. Your desk is Oak Veneer and a bit large for the average collector. Many times over sized items will take a while to sell, on the other hand, when you find a buyer that wants such an item, they are apt to pay a fair price. Date range: 1910s

Retail value:$500 -$600 (A solid Oak desk all the way around would bring more than a veneer desk.) (top price)

Wholesale value: $300-$350 (The midrange price you could expect to achieve at a well advertised live auction. The price that is most often realized)

Quick sale value: $250 The price your likely to get if you have to sell your item immediately and your prospective customer is aware of this.

Common trade terminology: Cutler Roll Top Desk, Oak Roll Top Desk

Nicknames or slang terms: C-Roll Top Desk In most cases.

Care and Storage Tips: I would take care to carefully glue any loose ends of peeling veneer to stop them from lifting further.

What's it Worth? Appraisal for Antique Wheel-Cut Compote

AW says: That's a Bohemian style "wheel-cut" compote. Circa 1910s. It's most likely Czechoslovakian, which means it's of very good quality.

Date range: 1910s

Retail value: $125-$175

(top price)

Wholesale value: $50-$75
(The midrange price you could expect to achieve at a well advertised live auction. The price that is most often realized)

Quick sale value: $35
The price your likely to get if you have to sell your item immediately and your prospective customer is aware of this.

Common trade terminology: Czechoslovakian Cut Crystal, Glass,

Nicknames or slang terms: Canoe compote,cut glass compote. wheel cut.

In most cases, I believe it would be beneficial for your to give the prospective buyer a link to this page, and to bookmark it via your favorite bookmarking service.

Care and storage tips: As with most good quality antique glass, never put it in a dishwasher and avoid extreme temperatures.

This is in Excellent condition - original finish - solid oak. Full size extra long.
Wood side rails. Taken extremely good care of the bed throughout the years.

Headboard is 70inches high (from floor to crown), 57 1/2 inches wide.
Footboard is 33 1/2 inches high and 57 1/2 inches wide.
Side rails are approximately 1 foot high

Headboard top comes off.

Over 90 – 100 years old I was told but can't get the exact year. It has been in my family
from the beginning. I have been told it is worth quite a bit.

Can you help me?

I have another old bedroom set that I plan to send to you soon.

Thanks – you came highly recommended by Terri H.

AW says: That's a very nice Eastlake style Victorian era, spoon carved Oak bed. Points for height and original finish. These old beds are coming back in favor. Usually beds are kind of tough to sell, but of antique beds, these large Eastlake high headboard beds are better sellers.

You can find these listed at much higher prices on the internet and elsewhere, but trust me, they're not selling in those price ranges yet.



Date range: 1880s

Retail value: $1000-$1200
(top price)

Wholesale value: $400-$600
(The midrange price you could expect to achieve at a well advertised live auction. The price that is most often realized)


Quick sale value: $250-$300
The price your likely to get if you have to sell your item immediately and your prospective customer is aware of this.

Common trade terminology: Eastlake Bed, Victorian Bed, Spoon carved Headboard, Spoon Carved, Spoon carved Oak


Care and storage tips: Nothing special, I'd be careful about what kind of treatment if any that you give it. I'd give this points for original finish which is important, I'd just dust it at the most.

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