Baltimore Beauty Examiner
Showing entries for Category: skin
Natural's Not In It
POSTED April 26, 3:20 PM
It seems like every few months, we in the skin business are made aware of another horribly toxic chemical to avoid.  Interesting that these chemicals, usually preservatives, are most commonly found in cosmetics, hair dye, and skin care products-all used primarily by women. Hmm...I'm not going to embark on a postfeminst tirade here, but it is a fact that we will happily suffer in the quest for superficial beauty.

 Historically, ladies everywhere have applied noxious unguents and suffered painful and degrading procedures at the hands of someone like me. Way back in Ye Olden Times, women dropped Belladonna in their eyeballs to dilate their pupils, and let leeches suck the blood from their cheeks to be paler. In Asia, lovely ladies painted their teeth black and did away with their eyebrows altogether. My favorite deadly concoction, commonly used throughout Europe until the late 1800s, was a delightful blend of carbonate hydroxide and lead oxide. Yep, that's the same lead oxide that is so toxic, you shouldn't even live in a house that's been painted with it.

 It took quite awhile for the medical community to determine that all that swooning wasn't necessarily due to womens' delicate constitution, and that perhaps a swoon was actually a seizure. When all the pretty damsels started dropping like flies, nobody really suggested that the deadly face powder was the culprit for a long time, even though it was an obvious common denominator. They didn't want it to be so bad 'cause it made the ladies look so good.

All of the dangerously beautiful substances I just mentioned were completely natural, and by today's standards, one hundred percent organic. My point is that preservatives exist for very good reasons in many cases. Natural is not categorically good, and chemicals are not always bad. Having said that, I do think that using organics and clean, plant-based cosmetics is a good idea. I just don't think it is reasonable to alleviate preservatives from our lives altogether.

Everyone is all up in arms about parabens lately. Here is the straight dirty as I understand it: parabens are bad, but it would take an unfathomable amount to have an estrogenic, hence cancer-causing, effect. According to the Food and Drug Administration's most recent studies,
"The FDA is aware that estrogenic activity in the body is associated with certain forms of breast cancer. Although parabens can act similarly to estrogen, they have been shown to have much less estrogenic activity than the body’s naturally occurring estrogen. For example, a 1998 study (Routledge et al., in Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology) found that the most potent paraben tested in the study, butylparaben, showed from 10,000- to 100,000-fold less activity than naturally occurring estradiol (a form of estrogen). Further, parabens are used at very low levels in cosmetics. In a review of the estrogenic activity of parabens, (Golden et al., in Critical Reviews in Toxicology, 2005) the author concluded that based on maximum daily exposure estimates, it was implausible that parabens could increase the risk associated with exposure to estrogenic chemicals."

The bottom line is that I still use products with parabens in them. But I've always been a risk-taker. I like to live on the edge. In the immortal words of Gang of Four, "This heaven gives me migraine."


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Affliction
POSTED April 9, 6:45 PM
One day not so long ago, a package came for me. I tried to act casual and nonchalant when the doorman called to tell me of its arrival; "Oh, okay", I yawned. "I'll be down soon to pick it up". Just like the addict I am, I get embarrassed about wanting it so much. I try to minimize it in front of people.

Obviously I stopped to put on some lipstick, but I don't remember using the door; I think I may have left an Arika-shaped hole in the wall in my haste. I knew this package contained nothing I hadn't really seen before, just a bunch of unassuming-looking bottles and jars, but I also knew what I always know with absolute certainty when these boxes are delivered: There is magic inside.


Photo courtesy of Nordstrom.com


For those afflicted, the sound of that vacuum when you open a new jar of moisturizer can elicit sighs of pleasure. My mouth actually waters when I read of the miraculous transformation that will occur when the contents of the jar are massaged into my face or body. Now, I'm not delusional about this stuff. Judging from my experience working with acres and acres of human epidermis, I maintain that at least fifty percent of what your skin ends up looking like is due to genetics, most of the rest is sun exposure (or lack thereof), and there is little scientific evidence to support the idea that it is necessary to spend boatloads of cash to care for your complexion. But I have been a lifelong, willing participant in a love affair with this possibility, the chance that this one might really be magic.

"Hello, Lover," I heard myself whisper as I pulled the chunky, translucent jar of Trish McEvoy Beauty Booster Anti-Fatigue Enriched Cream Primer and Mask out of its crisp, glossy white box. Several weeks later, I am pleased to report that there is evidently magic in here.

It's this amazing cream that can be used as a mask, primer before foundation, or on its own for a really natural, poreless finish. It makes my wrinkles disappear, feels light and fresh and hydrating without being the least bit greasy. My friend Renee, a fantastically gifted makeup artist, t-shirt designer and owner of the most perfect skin ever, turned me on to this stuff. I've found that my clients, from the Saharan to the slick adore the way it works with their skin,  which is really saying something; few moisturizers appeal so universally.

I'm so glad we found each other, I want to shout it from the rooftops. "I can't believe you're mine," I murmured to my little miracle this morning. Perhaps I should get out more...

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Arika Casebolt
Arika Casebolt is a renaissance woman--a former rock goddess and now an aesthetician who has lived the D.C.-to-Baltimore commuter life. Her goal is to educate and enthrall her readers with beauty tips for everyone, from the meek to the daring, for the commuters in all of us, and for those who prefer to stay at home.



 
 

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