Thure Harrington, member of Ameican Homebrewers Assn. and asst. brewer
at Soegaard Bryghus in Denmark, guides me at Copenhagen Beer Fest.
All photos cy Charlie Papazian
In Denmark, a tiny northern European peninsular with scattered islands, you’ll find an intense concentration of microbreweries and world class beers.
Some beers offered are exported from the United States. At the Ørsted Ølbar Café at Nr. Farimagsgade 13 I enjoyed San Diego area brewed West Coast IPA from Green Flash Brewing Co. Other beers available were from Losts Abbey, Russian River, Alesmith, Boston Beer, Anchor Brewing, Avery, Great Divide, Southern Tier and Flying Dog among others. Excitement bubbled over from the bartender with point of purchase information about styles available, special drafts and hops used in various beers.
Danish homebrewers and professional brewers have been inspired in part by the creativity and innovation that comes with American beers. There over 100 small microbreweries in Denmark. The economy has slowed growth, but beer drinkers' enthusiasm throbs with thirst and the quality is improving with each new batch.
Last month I attended the 3-day Copenhagen Beer Festival (Københavnske Øldage) and was blown away at this beer revolution happening in Europe. Both homebrewers and professional brewers collaborate to put on a first class event, worthy of any beer enthusiast’s attention.
About 75 Danish breweries and importers offered 4 ounce tastings of an extraordinary variety of ales and lagers. There was even one homebrew shop offering some of the best representation of homebrewed beer in Denmark.
Photo left: Anders Kissmeyer, brewmaster and owner of Noerrebro Bryghus in Copenhagen.
What did I enjoy? Where do I start.
Perhaps I begin with Ander Kissmeyer’s extraordinary selection of ales and lagers from his Copenhagen brewhouse and restaurant called Nørrebro Bryghus. Anders was one of the early Danish microbrewing pioneers, thoroughly researching the American beer revolution before embarking on his own project which was one of the original craft brewers offering excellent food and beer. At the festival Noerrebro offered over 30 different beers.
My wife and I were fortunate to encounter Thure Harrington, one of the assistant brewers at Søgaards Bryghus from the town of Aalborg in northern Denmark. His guided tour of brewers and their beers provided introductions to some of the well known names and brews of Denmark.
Soegaards Brewery is a story in and of itself. A brewery, restaurant and inn on the northern end of Denmark, German trained brewmaster Christoph Behnke brews up beers usually not approached by German brewmasters. My first beer was “Saprisehanen.” Brewed with 20-30%% red quinoa, sour mashed for 2 days, fermented with German classic Hefeweizen yeast and both sour cherries and Brettanomyces yeast added during aging. It was surprisingly well balanced and gloriously enjoying.
Photo right: Christopher Behnke German brewmaster, creatively brewing terrific beers at Soegaard Bryghus
The next day a superb special pilsener was offered as their special brew. This was dry hopped with noble German Tettnanger Tettnang hops. Dry hopping is something that German brewmasters would rarely consider – and it is against the German Reinheitsgebot beer purity law.
I scanned their brochure listing 20 beers: Quinoa, Red Quinoa, smOAK, Klosterbryg, Fort Dansborg IPA (perle hops), Stout Noire, Brown Ale, Madam Weizen, Julebuk, Utzon Blond and Dark, Barely wine, US Pale Ale (cascade), Bøorglumserien – Munkens Ale (coriander and cardoman) and Bispens Trippel were among the offerings.
When in Denmark go to Aalborg. I didn’t but have it on my to do list.
More to come about Danish homebrewing and craft beer
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