Men's shoes have been a part of the cultural landscape long before Don Draper strapped on some loafers on and went into Sterling Cooper. And we men have long desired to look great while feeling both classic and stylish at the same time.
Enter wingtips. We know they mean dressy, but what exactly are the differences between wingtips and brogues?
A brogue shoe (English term) is a sturdy leather shoe with perforations, or holes, called "brogueing" in patterns on the toe cap, aronud the lace holes and in other patterns in the leather. Originally created as drainage holes for the wet weather in Northern England and Scotland, they remain today as a distinguishing style of this type of shoe.
But all brogues aren't created equal. Four basic styles — all based on the toe cap — abound: full (a.k.a. "wingtip" in the Americas"), semi, quarter and longwing. Partner these up with the way the shoe is closed (laced shoes such as oxford and derby or strap closures such as monkstraps) and you have a veritable array of ways to have a brogue shoe.
Our favorite, the wingtip, is the "full brogue" style and called such in the States because of the "W" shape of the toe cap. These elegant shoes can be worn to dress up a pair of jeans or were with a nice suit.
A half-, or semi-brogue, has often been looked at as a more casual brogue with the same intentions: to dress-up a bit without going overboard. Look for a toe cap with the same perforations, but without them extended back onto the shoe.
A quarter-brogue has — you guessed it — even less perforations on it. Here, your find them on the edge of the toe cap but not on the top center.
If you happen upon a two-color brogue, you've found a spectator shoe: a full brogue with contrasting colors. You're proably at a swing dance when you notice them.
Lastly is the longwing. Famous in the 1970s (with an addition of some platforms), these types of brogues have a wing that entends the length of the shoe, meeting at a seam in the heal.
For my tastes, I go with the full brogue, and I'm partial to those from Grenson and Paul Smith.
How will you wear yours?
