Wine of the week: Ombra Barrica Tinto 2007

In the perfect economic world of supply and demand, a wine as delicious, perfectly aged and highly regarded as Ombra Barrica Tinto 2007 would not exist. It would have been long gone years ago, already devoured for its ultimate deliciousness. But since the free enterprise economic model is not perfect, sometimes wines slip through the cracks. This time is one of them.

Ombra Barrica Tinto 2007 hails from Spain, in the northeast corner from an up and coming appellation called Monsant. It's a blend of Garnacha (45%), Carignan (45%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). The hot and dry conditions of the area allow the grapes, especially Carignan (also called Samso) to get fully ripe; it tends to produce dark and robust red wines that are full of personality and perfect for aging.

This 2007 bottling, now five years old, has a very extracted nose of dark plum right off the bat with lead pencil, shoe polish and just of hint of light florals. The first taste is impressive for its sophistication and mellow demeanor; you can just tell something good is about to happen.

The flavors are of dark fruit, primarily plum and blackberry, but it also has a red fruit streak hitting at the top of the mid palate, that includes strawberry and cherry in the mix, brightening up the proceedings and making things even more complex.

It has quite a lovely mouth feel with all the possibly distracting tannins on the back end resolved at this point in time. It shows the perfect balance of fruit, oak and bottle age and is in its sweet spot for maximum pleasure. At the apex of its drinking window, I can't imagine how it will ever be better than it is right now. Think about it: you could spend your money on some burly and tannic current vintage red wine or you could buy one that's been patiently and perfectly aged for you, due to the vagaries of the marketplace.

Ombra Barrica Tinto 2007 ($13.99) is available at Lukas Liquor.

Previous wine of the week: Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2009.

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, Kansas City Wine Examiner

Since 1992, Dennis Schaefer has been the regular wine columnist at the Santa Barbara News-Press. He is the author of Vintage Talk: Conversations with California's New Winemakers (Capra Press, 1994) and Touring the California Wine Country (Gulf Publishing, 1997. After 27 years in Southern...

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