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What is behind personal product ingredients?

Did you know that close to 60% of the topical skin care products put on the skin is absorbed directly into the bloodstream. With ingredient names such as methylparaben, propylparaben, diethanolamine (DEA), imidazolidinyl urea, sodium lauryl / laureth sulfate and petrolatum and 1,4-dioxane, how can you decode the ingredients and choose the safest skin care products for yourself and your family?

According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), cosmetics fall under a different standard than drugs, medical devices or biologics, and are not subject to pre-market approval. The only exceptions are color additives, which must be approved by the FDA. Companies are responsible for determining the safety of their ingredients and products before going to market.  Companies are also allowed to use any ingredient they choose in the formulation of cosmetic products as long as the “ingredient and the finished cosmetic are safe, the product is properly labeled, and the use of the ingredient does not otherwise cause the cosmetic to be adulterated or misbranded under the laws that FDA enforces.” The question becomes, what is safe? An ingredient that may cause a reaction in one person may not cause a reaction in another.

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The best course of action is to be an educated consumer and avoid ingredients that are known skin irritants. For example, the parabens (methyl and propyl) are the most widely used preservatives in the United States, but are believed to mimic estrogen, and in high levels, estrogen can cause some women to develop breast cancer. Parabens can also cause allergic reactions and skin rashes.

Diethanolamine (DEA) and DEA related ingredients such as oleamide DEA, lauramide DEA and cocamide DEA are widely used as emulsifiers or foaming agents and can be irritating to skin and mucous membranes. Imidazolidinyl Urea is also a widely used cosmetic preservative found in baby shampoos, lotions, eye shadows, creams and fragrances, and is known to cause contact dermatitis. Sodium laureth sulfate (SLS) and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLES) are widely used in shampoos, soaps, detergents and toothpastes as foaming agents. These ingredients can also be found in hand lotions, bubble baths and creams, and can cause dry skin because of their degreasing abilities, they may also cause skin irritation, and have been linked to eczema.

Petrolatum, also known as Vaseline or Petroleum Jelly, is used in cosmetic products because it is very inexpensive. It is used in eye make-up, baby creams, emollient creams and cold creams. Even though petrolatum is marketed for dry skin, it can have the opposite effect of adding moisture to the skin because it can interfere with the body’s natural moisturizing mechanism. People who have hypersensitive skin can have allergic reactions to petrolatum. 1,4-dioxane is a by-product of a process called ethylene oxide which makes harsh ingredients milder. 1,4 dioxane is considered a contaminant and will not be listed on a label as such, but products containing myreth, oleth, laureth, ceteareth, PEG, polyethylene, polyoxyethylene, polyethylene glycol or oxynol may be indicators of a 1,4 dioxane by-product. The State of California considers 1,4 dioxane to be carcinogenic under the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986.

Companies may also “green wash” their products by advertising them as organic or natural even though they do not use ingredients that meet a specified organic standard such as US Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic. Look for the USDA Organic seal, which indicates that the product is certified under the USDA National Organic Program.

You can make some natural, gentle and effective cosmetic products at home. For example, green tea is an excellent natural toner for the skin because it contains Vitamin C and E. Grinding oatmeal to a fine powder and combining it with warm water makes a soothing and gentle cleanser and exfoliator. Natural vegetable oils such as hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, jojoba oil or sweet almond oil are excellent moisturizers that help to calm and soothe the skin.

There are many books and internet resources available for you to check the ingredients of the products you use. By knowing the ingredients used in personal care products as well as household products you can help protect your family from potentially irritating and harmful ingredients. 

, Rochester Organic Beauty Examiner

Elizabeth is a certified aromatherapist, and budding a clinical aromatherapist and herbalist who is passionate about natural skin care. She started her own company after her infant daughters had a reaction to a popular baby lotion. She loves the challenge of decoding ingredients found in skin...

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