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Vietnam for the budget traveler

Vietnam, a long slip of a country, is blessed with 2,025 miles of coastline with endless white sand beaches, protected harbors, picturesque fishing fleets and an amazing variety of fresh seafood. From the lofty peaks of the northern highlands bordering China and Laos, to the waterways of the agriculturally rich Mekong Delta bordering Cambodia, the variety of landscapes is vast. The Vietnamese people, who have endured countless wars over their strategic place in Southeast Asia, remain stubbornly optimistic and are almost universally friendly, open and welcoming.

Given the rich history, opulent scenery and low cost of living it’s no surprise that Vietnam is a popular destination for tourists from around the world, with over five million visitors in 2010. The fact that Vietnam has a well-trod tourist trail means that there is an ever-widening choice of accommodations, ranging from budget to luxury, especially in the larger towns and cities. The budget traveller will want to plan ahead to stay within a personal financial limit as upscale accommodations become more common.

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Lodging

When planning where to stay two useful websites are Trip Advisor, which has many reviews of facilities in Vietnam, and Agoda, an Asia-based hotel booking site that was acquired by Priceline in 2007. Both sites yield ample examples of budget lodging. Either Lonely Planet, the undisputed king of SE Asia budget guidebooks, or Rough Guide, is essential for cross referencing with these and other on-line sources. Once on the ground even less expensive options may be discovered by visiting properties that look intriguing.

Low to mid-range rooms offering some amenities such as air-conditioning, WiFi and breakfast, can be found for  around US$20-30. For example, in Hanoi, a room at the Holiday Gold Hotel, located in the desirable Old Quarter, offered nicely appointed, clean rooms, fairly clean bathrooms (if you ignore a little mold around the edge of the shower), dark wooden chairs, desk and armoire, local artwork, an efficient air-conditioner, cooked to order breakfast, free WiFi, three computers for guest use and an unfailingly smiling and helpful staff for $20. An issue for some could be the lack of elevator in this five story building. A major bonus was the knowledgeable, English-speaking staff that organized tours, stored bags, locked up personal computers in the hotel safe and offered suggestions about sightseeing, many times on the fly as they handed guests a complimentary umbrella or held the door. This was a pretty standard experience throughout Vietnam.

The consistent downfall travelers should be prepared for in budget hotels in Vietnam and elsewhere in SE Asia is that bathrooms tend to be the major weakness. It’s just not a major area of focus. The rooms themselves are usually spotlessly clean, usually have some kind of artwork on the walls but not always, while some lobbies are positively ornate with many touches left over from the French influence. However, the bathrooms may leave something to be desired:  the tub might be chipped, mold might be present around the edges and the plumbing might be spotty.

Breakfast is universally included in budget hotels, and often features a buffet, though some cook breakfasts to order. Buffets tend to offer a combination of Western andVietnamese foods, including rice or noodles, eggs, toast, pho, rice congee (porridge), cocktail-wieners (an odd but common item), tea, coffee, juice and perhaps fruit. For travelers who want to fill up and have adventurous tastes these buffets are more than adequate, but finicky eaters might want to supplement with some comfort food from their luggage or nearby markets.   

Transportation

Flights are so inexpensive within Vietnam that even budget travelers can fly, though many also choose long trips on buses and trains. A two-hour, one way flight on Vietnam Airlines from Ho Chi Minh City at the southern end of the country to Hanoi, in the far north, is around US $70. The same trip on the train is the identical cost, US $70, for a soft seat, or US $95 for a sleeper berth and takes 29.5 hours, a grueling journey on the noisy, shuddering locomotives, even with a sleeper. An open tour bus ticket from the ubiquitous Sinh Cafe, which allows stops along the way, from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, is US $60 but be aware that the night bus seats only recline part-way and with 48 seats jammed into a regular sized bus, are reportedly very uncomfortable for anyone over five feet tall.

Taxis are relatively inexpensive, but scams abound so make certain that the price is agreed-upon price before departure, and that the diver is clear about the destination. For example, the airport in Hanoi is about an hour from the Old Quarter and fixed price taxis can be found at the taxi stand for about US $16. It is recommended that the name, location and phone number of the hotel be provided to the driver so he can communicate directly with hotel staff in the narrow, twisting streets of the city.

Perhaps the worst scams involve bicycle rickshaws. It seems that no matter how careful one is, “misunderstandings” invariably result in a higher price at the end, either that the patron didn’t understand that the fare was a per person rate, not for two, or that the price for a tour was by the hour, not the trip. Chalk it up to cultural exchange as, fortunately, the rates are still relatively cheap, and think about how hard they work to lug you around.

Other expenses

Food and activities are generally very reasonably priced, especially street vendors, which sell meals for a few dollars.  A complete multi-course meal at a posh restaurant is not likely to cost more than about $US 50 for two. Beer is about US $1, with wine being so extravagant that even oenophiles will probably quaff more brews than wine. Admission fees to cultural performances, museums and other attractions are rarely over $10.

Independent travellers are likely to find that a 2- or 3-day tour to popular destinations within Vietnam, such as the Mekong Delta, Sapa or Halang Bay, is much less expensive than putting together myriad activities, lodging and meals separately. For example a 3 day tour of Sapa from Sinh Cafe runs about US $100 per person (less for groups), which might sound like a lot, but includes round trip train tickets from Hanoi, accommodations, most meals, local H’mong guide and entrance fees. The train alone is $70 round trip from Hanoi if priced separately.

Vietnam is ideal for budget travelers, offering spectacular scenery, ease of travel, low costs and congenial people.

Information:

Getting There:

Several airlines provide air service from the U.S. to Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi, including United, American and Delta. Prices for airlines departing from San Francisco International Airport were running from $925-2,700 with one or two stops, and takes 17-20 hours.  Check Skyscanner for more information.

Visa:
A visa is required for citizens of the U.S. Visas can be obtained for 30 days or 90 days, and for single-entry or multiple-entry. An application for a visa may be done by mail or in person at the Vietnamese embassy in Washington, DC or consulate in San Francisco up to 6 months before arrival. An application form is submitted along with the passport, a photo and fee, payable by cashier’s check or money order.  Several organizations offer Visa on Arrival for a fee of around $45 or more, depending on the type of visa.

Vietnam
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, SF International Travel Examiner

Inga Aksamit (Iaksamit@aol.com) has traveled through Asia and the Pacific Rim extensively from the age of four, having lived in Indonesia, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Peru as well as visiting numerous other countries in the region. Join her as she explores the culture and flavors of Asia, traveling...

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