During my trip last year to the Marche region along with the Gruppo Ristoranti Italiani – an organization based in New York that promotes authentic Italian foods in this country – the wine that impressed the group the most, at least the ones with the best palates – was Verdicchio. Pronounced, vehr-DEE-kee-oh, this is the dry white wine from the central Italian region of the Marche that was once well known in America. Its most distinctive trait was the green fish-shaped bottle used by the biggest producer Fazi-Battaglia. Unfortunately, the wines suffered during the years of market predominance by Fazi-Battaglia, but have recovered – and improved greatly, even – in recent years.
I enjoyed the several Verdicchios I had at the meals, as did he two notable palates on the trip, a well-known wine and spirits writer and another well-seasoned travel and food writer. Both raved about the quality of the Verdicchios at a tasting and subsequent lunch that was held for our group in the heart of Verdicchio country, the town of Jesi. They were impressed with the quality among the three levels: Classico, Superiore and Riserva. Verdicchio “might be the new Chardonnay” I heard one remark. Though made in several styles – including a dessert version – the wines are generally medium- to full-bodied, crisp, and flavorful.
One that was at that tasting in Jesi, but not tasted, is the only version I have seen on shelves, Bucci Classico Superiore. I have found it excellent in the past; medium-bodied, balanced, clean-tasting and wonderfully flavorful with hints of citrus that lasted for a very long time. It sells for around $25, easily worth the tariff. Verdicchio is something to keep in mind when visiting an Italian restaurant.
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