The passage can be long and rough. Expect to get seasick at least one day.
Getting across the Darien Gap between Panama and Colombia can be a challenge. You can travel overland all the way from Alaska to Patagonia – except for that one small section of swamps.
For travelers trying to get across, the options are basically narrowed down to two:
- You can fly. There are many flights between Panama City and a variety of cities in Colombia. It is a short flight and relatively inexpensive.
- You can take a boat. Many sailboats ply the waters between the two countries and you can get passage aboard if you are willing to wait a few days.
The trip from Colon to Cartagena generally takes 4 – 5 days, with two or three of them spent snorkeling and diving in the beautiful San Blas Islands and meeting the beautiful Kuna indians who live in the area. Once you leave the San Blas Islands, you are on open seas and the passing is known to be rough. Be sure to stock up on seasickness preventatives before boarding!
At this time (August, 2009) most captains doing the Colon – Cartagena route are charging around $375 per person.
There are number of hostels coordinating the sailboats. Two of the primary ones in Panama are: Wunderbar Hostel and Mamallena. In Colombia, Casa Viena is the local guru about sailing trips. Contact them for current info about which boats are leaving.
Be aware that this journey is not aboard a luxury 5-star cruise ship. You will be expected to help out with chores occasionally. Your bunk will be plain and simple. If you plan to cross the Gap in this manner, expect basic conditions.
The boats leave from someplace on the Atlantic side of Panama. Each captain has his personal preference for docking and you’ll need to get yourself to wherever it is departing from. Many times, the hostels will help arrange transport for you.
If you are traveling with a bicycle or motorcycle, you can take your bike onboard with you. However, it will be tied to the railings on deck and will be blasted by salt water for the entire journey. Be sure to put plenty of oil on your chains and other critical parts which may rust. They will still rust, but not too badly if you’ve protected them with WD-40 before departure. It’s also worth the money to stop and purchase a large blue tarp before boarding and cover the bike with that. It will need to be tied down securely to keep water out. There is an extra $50 charge for bikes, and $350 for motorcycles.
This crossing is not an “official” ferry, and there are no regulations. The captains that make it do so in their own boats and on their own timeline. Be very careful in choosing your boat, as some of them are known to have inadequate safety equipment. Boats that I have heard good things about at this point are: Metacomet, Stahlratte, Tango, Seedler If you have recently crossed on another boat, and can recommend it, please do so in the comments so others can read your recommendation.
Many captains opt to leave Panama from Puerto Lindo, which is where the Wunderbar Hostel is located. Although the shared bathrooms at the Wunderbar are fine, the sleeping accommodations are less than ideal – which leads to a hot, stuffy, sleepless night. I would recommend staying in Portobelo 15 kilometers away and heading out to Puerto Lindo in the morning.
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Read the rest of the series here:
Day 1 - Getting to the San Blas Islands
Day 3 - Another Day in Paradise
Day 4 - Time to Face the Open Seas
How to book a boat trip across the Darien Gap
Contact me via email at familyonbikes@gmail.com
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Comments
This is excellent information. Thanks, Nancy, for your great and thorough report.
You are most welcome. I hope it helps!
Very helpful. I hope to be in Panama this fall and have always heard that the Darien Gap was problematic.
Or, you could trying crossing the Gap like the late, great cyclo-adventurer Ian Hibell did it many years ago. Watch his amazing footage by going to YouTube and searching for 'Ian Hibell Darien Gap'
I am from Panama, born and raise here. I do not recommend anyone to try to cross the jungle between Panama and Colombia. First, it is very unsecure. They are guerilla in that area. That jungle is not man's land. Well you have been inform.
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