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The Sparrow: Anyone for lunch?

Big, beautiful and delicious.  Served with thick cut fries and in house mayo.
Big, beautiful and delicious. Served with thick cut fries and in house mayo.

The Sparrow has garnered a lot of attention in the last little while.  Located on a stretch of St Laurent street just south of Little Italy, this low rent corridor is undergoing a face lift; new restaurants and home decor shops are replacing the "a louer" signs that have been plastered to the windows for as long as I can remember.

The Sparrow.  The sign says it all.

The Sparrow is a small, casual restaurant that only serves lunch during the week, and brunch on weekends.  The atmosphere has a distinct, pub-like feel to it; the decor is antique British: tea cups and flatware line the shelves and old, manor lithographs grace the walls.  The "English feel" probably comes from chef/owner Marc Cohen, who hails from jolly old England, London to be exact. 

Cohen's heritage is well represented on the menu, as is his nose to tail approach to cooking; with a daring confit of pig's heart, liver and fennel ($8.50) listed among the appetizers.  As curious as my culinary palate was at the prospect of eating a pig's heart cooked in its own fat, I opted instead for the beef carpaccio($9.00).  The raw beef was served sliced with raw celeriac.  No paper thin slices of meat here, the beef was perfect in taste and size, with a simple sprinkle of sea salt and a drizzle of olive oil, this dish was exquisite in its simplicity, great ingredients will make a dish every time.

For the main course, I had to try the hamburger ($13.50).  A mammoth burger arrived served with thick cut fries and in house mayonnaise.  The meat was unadulterated beef: loose and free of fillers.  My only complaint regarding the meat was that it was slightly under seasoned.  The bread was grilled and did a good job catching all of the meat juice.  I was informed that the meat is ground in house, and,  judging by the taste, quality and texture of the meat, I believe it, and had no problems eating The Sparrow's hamburger  as the chef cooked it, medium rare. 

With a menu that changes every week, the Sparrow is indeed a fine place for lunch.  The place was crowded and deservedly so; weekend brunch is next on my list.  I'm hoping that bubbles and squeak will be on the menu, I haven't had a good one since my last trip to England.


  • Lisa 5 years ago

    I love Sparrow, there's nothing like confort food and a proper pint of English beer.

  • Simon 5 years ago

    I've tried twice to get a table but they're always full. I'll have to reserve next time.

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