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The food of Bali and Lombok, Indonesia

Travelers to Bali, Lombok and other islands in Indonesia can enhance their enjoyment of the tropical sunsets, curving beaches and soaring volcanoes if they sample the complex foods of the archipelago, a veritable culinary melting pot. Indonesian cuisine blends spices, cooking techniques and foods from its myriad visitors, from geographic neighbors to far-flung seafaring trading partners, including Malaysia, Thailand, India, China, Portugal, the Netherlands, the Middle East and others.

There are subtle and not-so-subtle differences between the foods of different islands that make exploring the entire archipelago (6,000 of the 17,000 islands are populated) a culinary adventure. For example, the flavors of Bali tend to be pungent and complex, while in Lombok (which means chilli in Indonesian) the heat is turned on. Many dishes that make up some favorite standbys originated from Java. Most of Indonesia is Muslim; therefore pork does not usually feature heavily except in Bali, which is Hindu, where beef is not commonly eaten.

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A rice-based cuisine, no Indonesian would think of sitting down to a meal without nasi putih (white rice), though noodles can be found in many dishes. White rice or fried rice is ubiquitous. Chopsticks are not used, and tradition in some areas favors the use of fingers over cutlery, while in other areas a spoon is commonly used. A fork or spoon is always provided in tourist areas.  If a bowl of water with lime is provided it may be used to cleanse the fingers, but is never consumed.

It is a common misconception that Indonesian food is hot. While it typically contains a complex blend of aromatic spices, the heat usually comes from the accompanying sambal, a paste of almost pure chilli (combined with small amounts of garlic, onion and salt), which can be blended on the plate to suit the diner’s palate.

Libations:

In many tourist areas where alcohol is prevalent, Bintang Beer is universal, with its distinctive red star (Bintang means star in Indonesian). It is very inexpensive at about US $1 a bottle and the spread between the prices of beer and either wine or spirits makes Bintang a common accompaniment to any meal.  Bintang is also the preferred logo on T-shirts of all shapes and sizes, and it’s possible that not a single tourist escapes the island without at least one Bali Bintang T-shirt in their suitcase. Alcoholic drinks are available everywhere in Bali, and in most tourist areas in the rest of Indonesia, but because of Muslim prohibitions alcohol may not be served in less traveled areas of the islands.

For a non-alcoholic beverage, lassi, a sweet drink made with yogurt, honey and fruit blended together, is cool and refreshing. Bottled water and soft drinks, including Coca Cola and orange Fanta, are widely available. Plain or flavored UHT milk, treated with ultra-high temperature, does not require refrigeration and is available in almost any convenience store or stall selling packaged foods. If you’re on the beach nothing beats a fresh young coconut-drink the delicately flavored young coconut milk, then spoon out the soft coconut meat. It’s a drink and snack all in one.

Indonesian menu-10 common dishes

Almost all menus are printed in English and Indonesian, even in the most humble warung (food stall), where the menu may be painted on a large wooden sign. That will provide a basic description, but doesn’t tell the whole story. The following is a list of common dishes likely to be encountered on an Indonesian menu.

Nasi Campur-served on a base of white rice ingredients can vary, but usually include a bit of pork or chicken, tempe (fermented soy bean cake), some fried noodles, a slice of cucumber and a dollop of sambal. Packets of nasi campur are sold all over, being the original fast food. Wrapped in a cone of banana leaf or butcher paper it can be eaten by hand by forming a scoop with one’s fingers. The restaurant version will be more elaborate, but may not be as tasty as the street version, and may include the ingredients listed above with fish, tofu, hard-boiled egg, vegetables and krupuk (deep fried shrimp crackers).

Nasi Goreng-the ever-present fried rice dish is one of the national dishes of Indonesia, and, while details can vary, is comprised of chicken, shrimp, blended spices and krupuk,  and is topped with a fried egg or thin omelet.

Mie (or mee or bakmi) Goreng-Fried noodles, which often contain similar ingredients to Nasi Goreng, with or without the egg on top.

Gado gado-originating in Java, this salad-like dish contains steamed, parboiled or fresh vegetables, which could include cabbage, green beans, water spinach, sprouts, potatoes and carrots. Garnished with hard boiled eggs and cucumber it is dressed with a thick peanut sauce.

Sate-small cubes of marinated chicken, pork, lamb or beef, grilled over a small tray of hot coals from portable food stalls, night markets and warungs, and served with peanut sauce.

Rendang-a rich, spicy meat dish made with buffalo or beef that originated in Sumatra. The meat is cooked in curry and coconut milk until almost dry.

Ayam kare-chicken curry cooked with coconut milk.

Babi guling-whole roasted pig stuffed with spices such as turmeric, ginger, garlic and chilli, a dish native to Bali.

Soto ayam-spicy shredded chicken soup with potatoes.

Bebek Batutu-spicy, crispy duck, steamed in banana leaves, a Balinese favorite.

Common Indonesian words related to food and drink:

Air (water)

Arak (distilled spirit made from rice or tuak, a wine made from the coconut palm flower)

Ayam (chicken)

Sapi (beef)

Babi (pork)

Ikan (fish)

Udang (shrimp)

Cumi cumi (squid)

Roti (bread)

Telur (egg)

Kecap manis (thick, sweetened soy sauce)

Bumbu kacang (peanut sauce, which should be delicate and sophisticated, not sweet and gloppy)

Lassi (sweet drink made with yogurt, honey and fruit)

Enjoying local foods can enrich the cultural experience, so although Western foods can be found in many tourist locations across Bali, Lombok and the rest of Indonesia, tickling the palate with new flavors and textures is part of the adventure of travel. Having a basic understanding of food terms and menu items is the first step toward a culinary quest.

See slideshow at left and related article: Highlights of Bali

Information:

There are countless numbers of casual restaurants in Bali and Lombok that serve authentic Indonesian food, but here are some representative samples:

Dayu II
Jl Bunisari
Kuta, Bali

Legian Snacks
Jl Padma Utara
Legian, Bali

Kerti Restaurant
Jl Silayukti
Padang Bai, Bali

Grand Corner Restaurant
Jl Raya Senggigi
Senggigi, Lombok

For more suggestions see the Bali Restaurant Guide and Lombok Restaurant Guide.

Bali, Indonesia
-8.3675308227539 ; 115.18342590332

, SF International Travel Examiner

Inga Aksamit (Iaksamit@aol.com) has traveled through Asia and the Pacific Rim extensively from the age of four, having lived in Indonesia, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Peru as well as visiting numerous other countries in the region. Join her as she explores the culture and flavors of Asia, traveling...

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