When it comes to the way a food tastes, author of American Terroir: Savoring the Flavors of our Woods, Waters and Fields Rowan Jacobsen says, “beyond a shadow of a doubt place matters.” Jacobsen was part of an Edible Conversations panel discussion on his new book along with Greg Atkinson chef, teacher and author of Northwest Essentials, Craig Campbell of Tieton Cider Works and Harmony Orchards, and Jon Rowley of Taylor Shellfish Farms. Terroir (pronounced tay – war) is a French word used to describe the unique characteristics a food achieves as a result of different geographic influences on flavor; soil, climate, micro-organisms, etc. Examples of micro-organisms altering flavor are the yeasts in wine and cheese production. Another example Jacobsen cited is from his home state of Vermont and how the bacteria in sap contributes to maple syrups roasted caramel flavors. Jacobsen noted that the flavor of many plant foods comes from the defensive compounds produced by the plant to ward off pests and added another reason to eat organic as these foods are often higher in flavor since growers don’t practice chemical pest management.
Jacobsen stated old school European Gastronomes might disagree that the North American continent has terroirs since we are a fairly immature food culture compared to the thousands of years of experience Europe has had to determine what foods grow best in specific regions, for example grape cultivation and wine production in the Burgundy region in France. However he argued over the last 10 years in the United States our food culture has been expanding and experimenting with different crops and production of foods to take the bounty nature has provided and add the human element creating something that is of superior quality and flavor.
Here in the Northwest two foods that meet the terrior description are our apples and oysters. Craig Campbell shared his family’s story on their apple production in the Yakima Valley and what makes this region so unique in the creation of superior apples and their organic apple cider. Jon Rowley had samples of oysters to share and discussed his association with the Yukon River Salmon, a variety particularly high in Omega 3 fats.
Lastly Greg Atkinson spoke lyrically about the sensory experience we have from our food ingredients, the beautiful color shades of apples, their fragrance, the visceral small and taste of oysters. It’s our manipulation in kitchen, applying heat to food that makes changes happen and it’s up to us to procure the best ingredients to enhance that sensory experience. Atkinson described American Terrior as a “romantic trip through America” and expressed gratitude for the “profound gift of living in the Northwest” to enjoy the bounty this region has to offer.
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