One of those magical summer nights in Los Angeles — warm with a light breeze, convertible tops down, a perfect evening for dining outside. Your LA Travel Diva was at Susan Feniger’s Street restaurant in Hollywood, seated in the jammed patio on a Tuesday evening (what double-dip recession?), surrounded by happy hipsters, contemplating a menu that can only be defined by that overused word eclectic.
Street sits on Highland Avenue just north of Melrose Avenue the former Dive ( Feniger’s Mozza is on the other side of the intersection), and very little has changed in the funky, joint-style layout.
Hollywood scruff instead of Beverly Hills glitz. There’s a small bar just inside the entrance, a few indoor tables, a much larger walled patio. What’s new is the addition of Feniger’s patented inspiration. One of TV’s “Two Hot Tamales” and a true innovator in the L.A. dining scene, on hand this evening and animated as always, she worked the patio with remarkable brio, then hurried into the kitchen (a large window allows patio diners to see in) to work the line with the rest of the cooks.
We ordered a couple of glasses of wine (the list is as unusual as the menu, perhaps a bit limited for some, with most choices available by the glass) and wondered how to compose a dinner when faced with so many tantalizing choices. When a restaurant’s signature dish is Kaya Toast — coconut jam spread toast topped with a soft fried egg — you know something different is going on.
Feniger’s inspiration here is street food from around the world — Latin America, Asia, India, Brazil, Greece, Southern U.S. — thus the restaurant’s name. Curried mussels from Goa, Nopales Relleno (cheese-stuffed cactus paddles) from Mexico, Cheese Grits from Dixie. Though the Wild Columbia River Salmon with Hawaiian fried rice and Brazilian Style Flat Iron Steak were reluctant scratches, we went for New Orleans style red beans and Laundry Day Fritters, the day’s Sashimi (ono tonight), Tofu Satay, Thai Noodles, Kale and White Beans, and a bowl of brown rice.
Call it proletarian food with an uptown twist, simple at its core but oh-so-cool, all pulled off with Feniger’s patented flair for flavors and spices and love of farmer’s market freshness and top-notch ingredients. And delicious, inventive, thoughtful but absolutely accessible food infused with an obvious love of eating. As magical as the soft night.
Street, 742 N Highland Ave., 323-203-0500, http://www.eatatstreet.com
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