A pig farm that doesn't stink? I didn't think such a thing existed until the Farm to Fork dinner at Square Peg Farm in Verboort, just north of Forest Grove, Oregon. But Portland area restaurants and Hog CSA subscribers count on farmers Amy Benson and Chris Roehm for certified organic hogs.
Why doesn't this pig farm stink like a traditional pig farm? The pigs are pastured in small groups of about a dozen hogs -- generally a litter or group born about the same time. Square Peg Farms currently has 12 sows and they are on a breeding schedule to provide a crop of pork continuously throughout the year.
Each group has a a shed for shade, water and feed, and access to a pasture. The pasture access is rotated weekly (by moving the fence wire) during the summer so the pigs always have room to roam on fresh grass and legumes. The pastures are on a three-year rotation, with food crops planted every third year. During wet weather and winter, they have straw-lined greenhouses for shelter. They are raised without antibiotics or hormones.
We visited these happy pigs on the hottest day of the year as they lounged in the shade. I was amazed that this system of pastured pork resulted in a pleasant-smelling farm. We settled in for the Farm to Fork dinner by the irrigation pond. I had a strong sense of deja vu as this farm was on my school bus route throughout high school. It was owned by one of the Dutch farmers of the area, who sold to these new farmers. Parts of the farm were planted in Christmas trees when Benson and Roehm bought it several years ago.
The hogs not only graze on organic pasture, but they are supplemented with certified organic alfalfa, organic hog feed and and leftovers from the farm's certified organic vegetable gardens. Square Peg Farms sells their produce at the Portland Farmers Market and the Forest Grove Farmers Market.
The pork is used by many of Portland's chef's restaurants who practice whole hog cuisine. The farm boasts that their pork is more flavorful. Portland is coming to be known as Porkland. Our dinner main course was delicious smoked pork shoulder from a smoker created by the farmers.
For consumer pork fans, a CSA is available to buy whole or half hogs. A half hog is about 100 pounds of pork for approximately $350, plus the butchering fee of about $90. The pork is butchered at a USDA-inspected facility according to your instructions for cuts desired. It is wrapped and flash frozen, unless you want to arrange to pick it up fresh. Square Peg Farms hog purchase info.
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