Each March the people of Valencia, Spain, hold their own extravagant fiesta, Las Fallas, an event that combines humor, sculpture, food, good will, fireworks and fire in just the right proportions to create a tumultuous and exciting late winter getaway. Kick the Blahs, experience Las Fallas.
What to Expect
The people of Valencia are some of the most welcoming on earth and, while Las Fallas is a community celebration involving all of the 350 neighborhoods in the city, visitors are welcomed with open arms. Valencia is a city of immense charms even without the festival. A massive flood in the late 1950s led to the relocation of the river Turia and in its old bed a park winds sinuously for five and a half miles through the old city. Where that park nears the port, famed Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava has designed the City of Arts and Sciences and Felix Candela has added the no less spectacular L’Oceanografic, Europe’s largest aquarium.
Valencia is one of the oldest cities in Europe, starting as a Roman colony in 138 BC, and extensive Roman remains and artifacts can be seen at the Plaza de Almoina and at the Museo de Historia de Valencia. The city is filled with buildings going back to medieval days -- in short, Valencia is a living museum of architecture from ancient to the most contemporary.
The art and beauty of Las Fallas
Start with amazing huge sculptures spread out in plazas throughout the city, add in a colorful religious procession that winds through the streets from 4 PM until the wee hours of the morning for two straight days, then throw in daily sonic fireworks (mascleta) all around the city. Add to all of this the streets markets, tents set up to feed neighborhood residents, street-side food vendors making bunuelos and sidewalk cafes filled with happy revelers. Top this joyous concoction off with a spectacular aerial fireworks display and then, the next night, more mascleta, fireworks and all ending with the grand finale, la Crema, when all of the neighborhood statues around the city are burned.
The Falla experience
The experience is Las Fallas is an enveloping wonderland of sight and sound. The colorful statues throughout the city are created by neighborhood groups, who spend all year planning and building them. Standing as tall as 75 feet and filling entire city plazas, they can cost as much as €700,000 ($1,000,000). They can be romantic, heroic, sarcastic or even poke fun at political figures, both Spanish and international. Las Fallas activities begin before noon and last well into the small hours of the morning. Yet, with all of the tens of thousands of celebrants, with fireworks exploding everywhere, there is little public drunkenness or disorder.
Every neighborhood across this huge city takes part in their local events and joins in others across the city. Small and large, they are all exciting to see and experience. Pubs and bars are serve the local version of tapas, ingenious small open sandwiches, along with those fabulous Spanish wines. Fortunately, Valencia is a walking city and it is easy to get from place to place to take it all in. Be sure not to miss the Procession of Fire from Calle Ruzafa and Calle Colon to end in Porta de la Mar on the last day.
Anyone planning to attend Las Falles for 2012 should make immediate reservation for both air and hotel. The city fills fast with both Spanish and other Europeans who have kept this festival a sort of in-house secret. Falla runs all of March but culminates March 14-19.
Getting to Las Falles and Valencia
Plan to fly from Boston through Madrid to Valencia. Iberia flies direct from Boston to Madrid, but those willing to add a stop or two may get even better fares. Iberia fares range between about $860 to $1,200 round trip, including all taxes and fees.
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