Individual wines and foods have their respective high seasons. Summer is ideal for a rosé or a Sauvignon Blanc, a cold shrimp cocktail or a gazpacho. Crackling November fireplaces are a prelude to a brooding red wine and braised short ribs.
And, because Chicago Budget Wine Examiner is almost as fixated on seasons and weather as on wine and food, readers have come to expect an update (or lament) about the outdoor elements as a segue to good value wine selections.
So, when the wines of Spain’s D.O. La Mancha were featured recently at Chicago’s River East Art Center, there was no way this climate-oriented excerpt from a Spanish proverb would go unnoticed: “Nine months of winter and three months of hell.”
The phrase is a testament to the extreme weather conditions endured by vineyards in D.O. La Mancha wine area in central Spain (the land of Don Quixote). Winter can bring oppressive frosts and bitter cold to this region, while summer temps can soar to 104 F. Rain is scarce, so vines are spaced about eight feet apart so the occasional precipitation will nourish each plant.
“I like when vines struggle,” says Charlie Arturaola, a world-renowned sommelier who hosted La Mancha’s U.S. tastings. Many Chicagoans can relate. Adversity builds character. That’s the consolation for many around these parts – either after shoveling snow in March or having the air conditioner burn out in July. In Chicago, people embrace the idea that the deprivations wrought by the northern Midwest climate make for a better person. It’s why a Milwaukee Avenue tavern owner scrunches his blizzard-wizened face when hearing about cities like Miami, Los Angeles or San Diego.
The grapes that flourish in D.O. La Mancha end up being strong – growing naturally disease-free. And the grapes are so successful, that they make up the largest wine area in all of Europe – “Spain’s wine lake,” as Arturaola puts it.
But, just as many obscure varietals don’t command outrageous prices, D.O. La Mancha wines fly under the Spanish wine radar, practically scraping the tops of the windmills that dot the landscape.
With Rioja and other top-of-mind Spanish regions grabbing attention and marketing dollars, D.O. La Mancha wines are a steal. Here are just a few that are worth enjoying with a dab-the-forehead summer barbecue, or character-building picnic of salads and seafood:
Vinicola de Tomelloso Añil Macabeo 2010: There’s a brilliance to the virtually undiscovered Macabeo, which makes it a great alternative to the more established Albariño. The fruity aromas of peach and lime, and a clean palate of citrus make this ideal as an aperitif, or with ceviche or raw oysters, along with vinaigrette-based salads. $9.50.
Bodegas Palacio de Galiana Luna Negra Reserva 2005: This balanced, smooth Tempranillo is very dark red in color with aromas of lush red fruit, with a nod to its 24 months in French oak (thus its “reserva” designation). There are notes of spice, tobacco and vanilla joining the red fruit on the palate, making this a nice wine for well-seasoned, spit-roasted chicken, or grilled beef. $10.
Bodegas Casa Antonete Crianza 2005: A Tempranillo that’s most unique to Spain, in that it’s a “truly classical style, with a hint of oxidization,” says Arturaola. Indeed, it has the aroma of long maturation: dark fruit, leather and spice box. A great, balanced palate of black plum and a bit of rosemary make this a perfect complement to grilled lamb chops. $11.
Bodegas La Remediadora La Villa Real Crianza 2008: Bright cherry hues and a complex aroma featuring currant, spice and chocolate – plus a toasty aroma that’s detected when first sipping. A very well-structured and elegant blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon – a great match with a dry-aged New York Strip steak. $13.
(Note: These wines will be available at metro Chicago retailers later this summer.)
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