Scenic Colorado drives: Alpine Loop Byway

View of the serpentine Alpine Loop Byway

Heading west from the south side of Lake City, between the Uncompahgre and Gunnison National forests, runs a beautiful 4 wheel drive road, recognized by the Colorado Department of Transportation as the Alpine Loop Scenic and Historic BLM Back-country Byway.  It is more commonly known as the Alpine Loop Byway, but the former describes this road very well.  The image you see here is a view of the Alpine Loop.

County road 20 on the map, the Alpine Loop is a high Clarence 4 wheel drive road that links the one time mining towns of Lake City, Ouray, and Silverton via a 65 mile loop.  The road is usually open and passable with 4 wheel drive June through October, and is a great drive in September as the leaves are changing.  There are many places to stop and many things to see, as it is a scenic AND historic byway, the following are a few highlights.

  Heading west out of Lake City, one of the first stops you'll want to make is Capitol City, an old mining hub established in 1877 that at one time had a population of 400.  During its heyday, an old smelter owner in town, George Lee, was convinced that this little town was going to be the future capitol of Colorado so he dubbed it Capitol City.  A few old buildings still stand here, including the old post office, that mark where the city once was.  The photo here is of the post office.

The first "scenic" stop you'll want to be sure to make is Whitmore Falls. This image was taken in      mid-spring, but they are always a sight to see.  Pull over here and make the short walk to the overlook to view their beauty for yourself, an experience unmatched by a photo.

Engineer Pass (12,800 feet above sea level), is one of the two passes along the Alpine Loop.  As you go over the pass, notice to the east the no longer active volcanic caldera (large crater).  From here, you can head further west to Ouray, or continue the loop toward the old town of Animas Forks.  Once a little mining town, Animas Forks was once buried by 25 feet of snow back in the winter of 1884.  At Animas Forks, you have another decision, head west to Silverton, or start back east toward Lake San Cristobal, continuing the loop.

If you head toward Silverton, you'll come across a striking area known as Arrastra Gulch.  This is the home to the first mine founded in the San Juans, the Little Giant, and other mines including the Mayflower mine.  From the Mayflower, there is a trail (about a mile long) that leads to Silver Lake.  Silver Lake is in the Guinness Book of Records for having the largest amount of snowfall in a 24 hour period... 76 inches fell between April 14th and April 15th of 1921.  And, although I don't think it is technically part of the Alpine Loop, I'd be remiss not to mention a little side trip with some fantastic scenery.  Before stopping in Silverton, continue through the town toward the San Juan Scenic Byway.  As you head west, on a steep and winding road, you will be working your way up to Corkscrew Pass. The image here was taken as I reached the top, and let me tell you, although it is a great photo, it does the scenery no justice.

If you do not choose to go toward Silverton, opting instead to finish the loop and head back toward Lake City you will encounter many more ruins of the mining boom of the late 1800's and early 1900's, as well as the very lovely American Basin, and the geological wonder of Lake San Cristobal- Created by the Slumgullion Earth flow and Colorado's second largest natural lake. (for more information on the Slumgullion Earth flow and the creation of San Cristobal, go to http://www.examiner.com/examiner/x-21667-Denver-OffBeat-Travel-Examiner~y2009m8d29-Colorado-geological-features--Slumgullion-Earthflow )

Be sure to drive this road with care, as it is a back-road and is not forgiving to careless mistakes (as evidenced by the wreckage of cars one may see every once and a while).  Besides, taking it slow and steady is the best way to experience all you can on this stretch of road, a cross section of Colorado's beauty and history.

For more information on Lake City:  http://www.examiner.com/examiner/x-21667-Denver-OffBeat-Travel-Examiner~y2009m8d31-Lake-City-Colorado