As you turn down Holyoke Street in Harvard Square and you set your sights on Sandrine's you immediately get whisked away to Paris. As the entrance to Sandrine's makes you feel as if you are entering a Paris Metro station, it does in a way take you to Paris itself. If you have never been to Paris then Sandrine’s is everything you imagine a bistro to be and what the truly are. As your French waiter Alex tells you about his home in Lorraine, France you begin to forget that the hustle and bustle of Mass Ave are only a few feet away and you begin to think that when you leave the Eiffel Tower will be sparkling in the night sky.
As you are whisked away to a romantic table in the dining room, heavenly smells waft from the kitchen beckoning you to leave your food inhibitions at home and journey to the Alsace Lorraine region with Chef Raymond Ost. A big man larger than life Chef Ost oversees the kitchen like a general in an army, which in essence a kitchen is. Not a dish leaves that kitchen that he doesn’t personally inspect first. Put your trust in the kitchen as well as your server. Most have been there many many years and know what they are talking about. Some like, Alex are from the region itself……put your faith in them, tell them what you like and let them guide you down a path to the wonders of Sandrine’s food. Bite after bite you will be awed by what Chef Ost can do to simple ingredients like artichokes, escargot and even tofu.
Everyone should start off their evening with a Flammekueche (Tarte Flambée). Whether you start off with the Traditional one of hickory smoked bacon and caramelized onions or choose the Artichoke Gratinee you cannot go wrong. Both start off the same-a crispy flatbread topped with nutmeg scented fromage blanc. Next course, perhaps a salad? If you are lucky enough the salad special of the night might be beets sliced thinly and tossed with a light vinaigrette and then topped with melt in your mouth anchovies. Think you don’t like anchovies? Think again! These are nothing like the ones that top Caesar salads at chain restaurants. Not fishy or salty, the truly do melt in your mouth almost like warm butter. Like something a little more traditional? How about the Moules Marinieres-mussels steamed in Riesling wine with garlic, shallots and onions. Throw in a side of bread and you are all set!
For those of you who have been to Sandrine’s before, there are a couple of new entrees. For the vegetarian in you there is Marinated Roasted Soy Glazed Tofu served with sautéed spaghetti squash and arugula salad. So healthy, but also very satisfying with the rich deep flavors and because the tofu is roasted takes on a rich meaty quality. For the meat lovers, they have a Braised Organic Rabbit Leg. Think you aren’t up to eating rabbit? This meat really does look and taste like chicken. If you were served it and not told it was rabbit you would assume it was chicken. Rich and delicious with the meat falling off the bone, it’s hard to decide whether to go for the meat or the spaetzle it’s served with. The perfect bite will have a little bit of both and some of the lardons and mustard sauce. You can’t go wrong with lardons and mustard in the same dish!
Some of the Sandrine’s classics include the Choucroute (also known as the meat platter).Sandrine’s is famous for this dish with its slow cooked sweet sauerkraut topped with three different sausages, grilled smoked pork loin, a ham hock and the crowning glory a bacon wrapped fingerling potato! A meat platter for the carnivore in all of us. Another favorite is the Pan Seared Duck Breast served with mushroom and a brandied cherry reduction. The duck is cooked to perfection so that is tender but not greasy and cherry reduction cuts through the richness so that every bite is a little bit of heaven. Of course you can never go wrong with lobster and Sandrine’s does it right…….in risotto with seasonal vegetables and a brandy lobster sauce. If there is a heaven it is this dish! So rich and creamy that you know your doctor would not approve except that he is at the next table eating it too!
Hopefully you saved room for dessert…….they all sound so good it will be hard to decide. A chocoholic? Definitely go for the Chocolate Kougelhopf. This dense rich chocolaty cake is somewhere between a flourless chocolate cake and chocolate lava cake. Don’t be shy and ask for a glass of milk to wash it down. There is also the classic French dessert, crème brulee. This vanilla liqueur custard has a burnt sugar topping. Warm and crunch on top, cool and creamy underneath. The best of both worlds. Another classic is the profiteroles. Pillows of light and airy dough filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with fresh strawberries and a Grand Marnier chocolate sauce. The perfect ending to a fabulous meal.
Whether you go in the winter when it is warm and cozy inside, or in summer when they fling all the floor to ceiling windows open…..it is always the perfect time to take a trip to Paris even if it is only for a few hours at Sandrine’s.
Sandrine’s always has something going on so check their website for what is happening and to read about their three course prix fixe menu which is only $40 a person. You can’t even think about a trip to Paris for that.
Sandrine's is located at 8 Holyoke St in Harvard Square Cambridge, Ma 617-497-5300
Monday-Saturday Lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, dinner from 5:30pm. Sundays dinner only from 5:30pm
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