Tomatoes grow to amazing sweetness and palatability in the volcanic soils east of Naples, north of the Amalfi coast. The fleshy, thin-skinned San Marzano breed of tomatoes that are named after the town of San Marzano sul Sarno are the best tomatoes in the world – fresh or canned – for making traditional Neapolitan sauces. And, really, any sauce where tomatoes are significant presence.
In a time when heritage breeds have been staples of menus, it is not surprising that “San Marzano” has become a frequent site on menus, too, Italian-themed and otherwise. Home cooks, also, have been attracted to the name and a great many are willing to spend the additional soldi for a can.
But, there has been some skullduggery associated with this recently famed name: “The president of the Cosorzio San Marzano says that at least 95% of the San Marzano tomatoes in America are not San Marzano.” This is from the blog of Beatrice Ughi of Gustiamo.com, an importer of fine Italian foods, which you should read if you are considering purchasing “San Marzano” tomatoes in the near future.
Who would have thought that something like this could happen in the Naples area….
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