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Rodebjer FW 2014: Fur and Pheromones

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This reporter liked a lot of things about Carin Rodebjer's Fall Winter 2014 collection. The Swedish designer, like Miuccia Prada, doesn't seem to worry about following trends or designing for a high-maintenance sort of client. The Rodebjer woman has more intellectual and artistic aspirations.

The show on Thursday was designed to feel like a hothouse - not in that the space was uncomfortably warm (it wasn't), but that it was intimate and filled with leafy plants and strung up lights. Rita Mae Brown's novel Rubyfruit Jungle was said to be an inspiration, as was the sensual photography of Jean Loup Sieff. This all made for a lush, laidback backdrop - the perfect setting for such a loose collection.

A few standouts: for the director of an art gallery in west Chelsea, a drape-y suit in burnt sienna, which would provide an air of authority, as well as ease and economy of movement. A fur tunic for the urban explorer, or for a rich lady vacationing in Iceland. A shaggy scarf-suit combo for touring RISD with your son who wants to major in photography. A one-sleeved LBD, which, let's face it, would be perfect in pretty much any situation. A camel coat with rhinestone accents for touring universities in the Northeast with your gifted-and-talented twins. These clothes call to mind a sophisticated woman who is out to get things done.

A final note: this reporter has noticed that male designers tend to design clothes for women that focus mainly on their sex appeal, whereas female designers give women the option of dressing for power and comfort. It's a refreshing thing to watch. Rodebjer does it well.



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