Ernest Hemingway wrote that “wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.” While living in Europe, Hemingway found that “drinking wine was not a snobbism nor a sign of sophistication nor a cult; it was as natural as eating and . . . as necessary.”
Yet, those polite civilizations, who either have cellars full of billion dollar vinegar or a fondness for mass production, seem to have forgotten the farmers, the vineyard-hands, and the winemakers who toil together to create this natural perfection.
So, in an unpretentious pursuit to rescue great food and wine from snobbery and market-driven rating systems, sommelier/writer Kevin Lynch and chef/photographer Amber Share of Native Food and Wine have begun a self-funded, world-wide culinary tour to discover first-hand how each culture produces and values their food and wine.
So far their journey has taken them to numerous wine regions in the United States, including off-the-beaten-wine-trail stops in places like New Mexico. In the Southwestern part of the United States, Lynch finds wineries like Gruet “really inspiring.” The duo has also been exploring the new-world destinations of New Zealand and Australia. The team will soon be exploring Singapore, then Italy in the spring, and Argentina and Chile before the end of the year.
When asked what motivated them to take a risk “that most people probably are not willing to take,” Share claims that it is both her and Lynch’s “desire to travel and to learn more about other cultures.” For Share, “without history, food is little more than sustenance. . . . It is the people and places that inspire me to cook and [to] learn more.” Thus, food and wine are much more than mere products. They represent the people, the places, and the methods that produce them.
A passion for food and wine has brought this team together on an altruistic mission to offer a humanizing glimpse into regional terroir, cultural history, and sustainable growing practices. Everywhere they have been Lynch finds that many of the producers that they have met are “committed, intelligent people . . . who are barely getting by, but continue to fight the good fight for quality food and wine.”
Unlike explorers of yore who tried to civilize each culture into one dogmatic model, Share and Lynch have discovered the “range for enjoyment and appreciation” of each country’s uniqueness, including their often humble take on their own traditions. For example, while in New Zealand, Share was “blown out of the water” by the Bay Islands Agricultural & Pastoral Show.” Share says that they had been “told by some locals that it was just a little country fair but it was this historical and charming event.” (Read more)
Looking forward to their next stop, Lynch praises Singapore as a place that offers a “vibrant . . . colorful and diverse . . . food scene.” Share says it “is a country where you can get a look at several Asian cultures in once place at one time.”
Ultimately, Share hopes that visitors to the Native Food and Wine site “will be[come] more curious and want to learn more about where their food comes from and how our practices affect people.” Lynch simply wants readers to gain “a better understanding of what makes people everywhere alike and different at the same time.” He believes “if each of us took a little time to see how our neighbors get by we would be better neighbors and maybe get by better ourselves.”
Becoming more responsible to ourselves, our neighbors, and our environment sounds very civilized to me. Perhaps in doing so, we can enjoy and appreciate the perfect sensual purity of what simultaneously sustains and inspires us.
To hear more about Share and Lynch’s adventures, visit Native Food and Wine. With their descriptive and informative featured articles, appetizing recipes, video stories, and sensuous photography, readers can virtually enjoy their gastronomic journey.
A very special thank you to Native Food and Wine for taking the time to answer a long list of questions and for documenting their travels on their website.
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