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Premium tea part two: infusions other than tea and tea drinks

Rooibos leaves in a bowl.
Rooibos leaves in a bowl.
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Photo by the author

This article is the second in a series of three about premium teas and infusions. Here, infusions frequently called tea and tea drinks are discussed, in the first article the different varieties of tea (C. sinensis) are presented along with a list of retailers of premium teas, and in the third article, a good recipe for (masala) chai tea is given.

An infusion is simply a beverage that is made by soaking ingredients in water for some period of time.  Coffee, for instance, is an infusion, as is tea.  When the ingredients are cooked for a protracted time, around thirty minutes, and a significant volume reduction of the cooking liquid is achieved, the result is a decoction, which is usually required for heartier plant parts like roots, twigs, bark, and some seeds.  Infusions, by contrast, typically are made from softer plant parts like leaves and flowers.

Many popular infusions are prepared and enjoyed like tea, and in fact some bear the name, although it doesn't fit.  True teas are from the plant Camellia sinensis and no other.

Some tea-like infusions:

  • Rooibos, or red tea, is not actually tea but is instead an infusion of the rooibos (Afrikaans for "red bush," and pronounced "roy-bos") Aspalathus linearis, which is a broom-like plant with needle-like leaves that turn red when they dry.  It is native to South Africa.  It brews into a smooth herbal tea (caffeine-free) that is high in antioxidants and quite relaxing.  It tastes very nice when blended with vanilla and a bit of sugar and sometimes cream.
  • Yerba mate, or just mate, is not actually tea, though it is higher in caffeine even than black tea.  It is instead an infusion of the yerba mate bush (pronounced "mah-tay") Ilex paraguariensis, which is actually a species of holly.  Its origins are in South America, particularly Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, and southern Brazil.  It's brewed both from the dried leaves and twigs, though premium mate is "sin palo," i.e. without sticks, and it is brewed in hot water as opposed to boiling water.  In fact, using water much over 180 F to brew mate results in a terribly bitter cup, whereas cooler water provides a very smooth drink.  It is advisable to temper the dry leaves with a little cold water before adding the hot water just to add a little extra insurance against using water that is too hot.  It's frequently served in a hollowed-out gourd and consumed through a filtered straw.  Drinking mate in South America is very social, the gourd being passed from one to another, each with their own straw, and a single batch of leaves is frequently brewed many times.  Mate is high in caffeine, although its particular blend of xanthines creates mental and nervous alertness with some muscular relaxation.
  • Tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum) is not a true tea either but instead a member of the basil family from India, where it is much revered, being called holy basil.  The infusion is very pleasant and smooth, instead of tasting like pesto or other basil products familiar in the West, and it seems to have a balancing effect on the nervous system.  It is considered something of a health elixir in India, and it seems to have validated pain management and blood-sugar balancing properties, as well as being something of an adaptogen.  The Organic India brand sells tulsi, and it is available both online and at Earth Fare.
  • Herbal teas are not true teas either but are instead infusions of a wide variety of (sometimes) tasty plants.  Some common herbs used in herbal tea preparations are chamomile, hibiscus, rose hips, licorice (better and sweeter than it sounds!), ginger, and assorted fruits.  These are (usually) caffeine-free and can be quite delicious.  Plus, they may be high in antioxidants, vitamins, or have special properties.  Chamomile, for instance, is well known to promote relaxation and restful sleep.  They can also be more medicinal, though this is outside the scope of this article.

Other tea-like drinks actually contain tea but aren't just your regular cup.  A few of the most famous of those are described here.

  • Lapsang souchang: This actually is just a type of tea, specifically it is black tea that isn't just dried, it's smoked over a fire using a particular kind of pine.  It is very strongly scented of smokiness and produces a very curious, acquired-taste red-brown liquor in the cup.  Initial reactions to the tea often include exclamations like "it tastes like beef jerky in a cup!"  That's not true, strictly speaking, but the smoky flavor and aroma are quite pronounced.  Definitely try it, knowing what you're getting into, but start off with a sample-size (so you don't end up with a big, expensive bag of it like I did -- it's hard to use much of it at a time!).
  • Thai tea which is confusingly also sometimes called "red tea" is actually black tea, usually a robust Assam (a kind of black tea) to which a certain quantity of vanilla and a bit of red food dye has been added.  It is served both hot and iced, frequently mixed with heavy sugar syrups and cream, or just as often, with sweetened, condensed milk.  It is vibrantly burnt-orange in the cup, particularly after the addition of cream and has a very pleasant flavor.  A fair approximation can be made easily at home by adding just a dash of vanilla extract to black tea, although the flavor actually comes even closer if a bit of rooibos is added too, although that is not included in the Thai red tea recipe.  The best way to enjoy this beverage correctly is to have some brought back to you from Thailand (or bring it yourself) by someone that visits or to enjoy it in a Thai restaurant.  It can be hard to find and expensive to order, and the quality tends to be relatively low.
  • Chai tea is a tea drink popular in India and worldwide in which spices and milk are combined with tea. Though the recipe can vary widely, the spices usually include ginger, cloves, cinnamon, and black pepper.  The tea is typically black and robust.  Other variants include vanilla, chocolate, or other spices (e.g. "pumpkin pie spices") for seasonal or specialty flavors.  It can be sweetened or not. Incidentally, the word chai is simply the Hindi word for tea.  The proper name for the spiced drink is "masala chai," which means spiced tea.

To buy these locally is possible in some cases and not easily done in others.  All of the herbal infusions above are available at an upscale grocery store like The Fresh Market or Earth Fare in Knoxville, though you may have to settle on a bagged variety (particularly for the Tulsi, which can be purchased at the Earth Fare locations in Knoxville).  Lapsong souchang can be hard to find, but it occasionally available at The World Market in Turkey Creek.  Thai tea may be available at an Asian grocery in Knoxville or through a Thai restaurant (Taste of Thai, Lemon Grass, etc.), but it can be quite difficult to get without knowing someone that is visiting Thailand.  The brewed, iced variety of Thai tea is available as a drink at Lemon Grass Thai restaurant and sushi bar (e.g. on 321, Lamar Alexander Pkwy, in Maryville, just near it's intersection with 129, Alcoa Hwy).

For a recipe for (masala) chai, click this link to the third part of this three-part article.  For some reference material on premium teas, click this link to the first part of this article.

For more ideas and information about tea, see the National Tea Examiner, Margaret Studer.

For more great recipes and cooking ideas, follow the Knoxville Gourmet Food Examiner by subcribing at the top of the page. You can also read more on his personal cooking blog: The Untrained Gourmet.

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, Knoxville Gourmet Food Examiner

Jim Lindsay has been bringing his passion for great food to his kitchen for about a decade. He is frequently invited to cook for friends and family, including some chefs, and describes cooking as his "artistic outlet." Since he trained himself with cookbooks and FoodTV, he believes great cooking...

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