Yes, and what an unusual garnish it turned out to be!
The newly opened Trace Restaurant at the W Hotel isn’t ordinary by any sense. A simple corn soup becomes a conversation piece on top of one of the sleek tables inside. The vibe is trendy and modern. It’s part museum cafe (The MOMA is right next door), and part high end club. Techno music plays softly in the background so as not to overpower the lunchtime crowd (strangely sounding like Abby’s lab on NCIS). Just like the soup; the atmosphere is unexpected, great fun!
The menu reads Brentwood Corn Soup~ Spiced Popcorn, Cotija Cheese, Cilantro, Cream. And those words certainly evoke a curiosity over what would otherwise be an ordinary bowl of sweet puree. Before it arrived, I was expecting whole pieces of that oh-so-familiar movie theater treat. It seemed as though I would be presented with an entertaining, and unforgettable addition (shock artist style) effort by the chef.
I was wrong. This garnishes are beautifully done, and have it all: presentation, color, and a balance of extraordinary textures and flavors (creme fraiche, and mexican cheese in the same bowl?). Never underestimate a creative mind! Or the responsibility of more and more chefs, who are leading by culinary example through the use of local, organic and sustainable ingredients.
The soup is made with vegetable stock, and of course the main ingredient: corn. It begins with a smooth puree. The textures and additional flavors (sweet with spicy work well together) come from the Creme Fraiche (flavored with thyme and parsley), the finely diced cilantro, mexican cotija (similar to queso fresco, but with a ricotta consistency) and of course; the popcorn. The popped kernels are dusted with cayenne pepper and then crumbled. There was not a rogue, un-popped kernel in sight.
Served with a side of Epi bread (there's bread, and then there is bread) and soft (not too hard, not too cold, but just right) butter. The contents of this bowl are worth their weight in maize.
Clean lines, modern furniture, with a black, white and platinum minimalist design scheme serve to highlight the colors and presentations of the food and beverages here. Centerpieces are rosemary sprigs in pale robin’s egg blue ceramic vases. Deep purple orchids appear at the entrance of this establishment, and a back wall is lit with a splash of electric lavender.
Click on the slideshow for more photos!
Trace at the W Hotel
181 3rd Street San Francisco
415-817-7836
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