Housebreaking is the number one behavioral issue that I am consulted about. Housebreaking can be a challenge but it doesn't have to be a deal breaker. A few days of diligence will leave you with a housebroken companion for life.

Your Housebreaking Goal

Your goal as your dog's trainer is not only to let him know what you don't want him to do, but also what you do want from him. In fact, dogs respond better to the positive (this is what I want you to do) than the negative (I don't want you to do that) especially if they aren't given a clue as to what they should do instead of that thing you don't want them to do. So if what you don't want your dog to do is poo on the floor, your goal is to let him know where to poo instead.

It is always better to not have to correct your dog. Corrections can lead to misunderstandings such as, "Oh I shouldn't poo in front of you, I should poo over here in the closet instead." or "Oh you don't like the site of poo, I'll just eat it next time so it doesn't offend you." Both of these scenerios lead to all new issues to deal with so it's best to just avoid it from the start. Instead of punishing your dog for going in the house, don't give him the chance.

Watch and Confine

The secret to this is to watch him every minute and if you can't, to keep him in a crate that's large enough to be comfortable in but small enough that if he urinates or defecates in it, he won't be able to escape it. Dogs don't like laying in their own waste so if they can't escape it, they'll hold it in as best they can. Don't be cruel though. Make sure your dog gets outside at least every three hours in the beginning, so he has plenty of opportunity to do it right and get rewarded for it.

Watching means just that. It doesn't mean hanging out in the same room with your dog and watching TV. It means you are looking right at him so the minute he starts to circle or squat you are on your feet joyously exclaiming "Time to go outside" and scooping him up to run for the yard. During this period you should leave the leash on at all times so that you don't have to look for it in your rush to get out the door. Observe your pet carefully so that you learn his signals. If you keep a housebreaking diary you'll soon be able to predict when  your dog needs to go, provided you're feeding him on a regular schedule.

The Food Connection

What starts as food invariably ends up as waste, assuming everything is working properly. The amount of waste depends on various factors. A dog who eats large amounts of food is going to produce large amounts of waste. Higher quality dog food provides more nutrition in smaller servings and more food is absorbed and used by the body. Lower quality dogfoods often contain alot of bulk in the form of insoluble fiber and other ingredients dogs simply can't digest and that means he's going to produce more feces. So make sure your dog is eating the best diet you can afford. Talk to your vet about your options.

If your dog free feeds, that is, has food available to him to nibble on all day at his leisure, it will be impossible for you to predict when he needs to go. Talk to your vet about exactly how much food your dog needs and how often he should be fed. Younger dogs need to be fed two or three times a day, but adult dogs can be fed once a day. If your dog is fed at the same time each day, and his food dish removed after he's had ample chance to enjoy his meal, you'll begin to see a pattern in your housebreaking journal. This will help you predict when your dog needs to go so you will have more opportunities to reward him for going outside.

Reward Don't Punish

It's early in the morning and you're bleary eyed. You roll out of bed and stagger toward the coffee maker and suddenly you feel something cold and squishy between your toes. Before you fully register what that's all about the smell reaches your nose and leaves no question. Fido has pooed on the kitchen floor.

Before you reach for the rolled up newspaper, take a moment. Understand that first, it's your fault. He should've been in a crate if you weren't watching. If you're still bent on punishing the poor fellow, consider this; You have no idea how long ago he deposited that poop. He's probably forgotten all about it. If you drag him over to it and stick his nose in it and then spank him, you will teach him: 1) It's back to stick your nose in poop (and my owner is crazy for thinking I needed that particular lesson.) or 2) The sight of poop enrages my owner (so I should hide it better next time). You are not teaching him what he should be learning: where pooping is good. Remember always when training your dog not to do something that he must also learn what he should be doing instead.

Take precautions to prevent accidents and when they occur, clean them up and move on. Yes, every accident is a step back but there's nothing you can do about it except be more careful next time.

To teach your dog what he <i>should</i> be doing, choose his designated potty spot (indoors or out, preferably out) and take him to that spot at regular intervals throughout the day. I suggest every three hours with extra trips after each meal and after each nap. Keeping a journal and feeding him on a regular schedule will help you refine your potty schedule so you should only need to do this for a few days (don't worry!).

Take him to the spot and stand there ignoring him for a few minutes. If nothing happens after 10-15 minutes take him in and watch him carefully or put him in his crate and try again in a half hour or so. When he does go, say "Good! Go Potty!" and give him a treat. If you use a clicker, click him as soon as he starts. Then play with him a bit before you take him in.

Helpful Tools

The training tools that will be key to your housebreaking success are simple.

1. A crate. The crate should be large enough for your dog to stand, lay down and turn around comfortably in but small enough that he can't make a mess in one end and sleep in the other. If you have a blanket in the crate, he might mess and then cover it with the blanket. If this happens, take the blanket out. (Learn how to crate train your dog.)

2. A spray bottle with 50/50% water/vinegar solution. Spray this on potty spots in the house to get the smell out.

 3. A leash. Keep it on all the time you pet's not in his crate so that you can get him out quickly if the need arises.

4. Treats. Keep them in a jar by his potty spot outside so they're always handy. Or keep them in a baggie in your coat pocket.

5. A designated potty spot. Teaching your dog to go in a specific location will be much easier on you and much less confusing for him than teaching him to use the world at large as his toilet. "Everywhere but here" is not as clear as "this spot right here". The spot should be about 10x10 feet to give him some pacing and sniffing room and it's a good idea to have it marked in some way either by a different texture (mulch or peagravel) or using a landscape boarder or bricks or stones.

6. A notebook. Keep a journal of every time your dog goes potty indoors or out. This will help you get an idea of his schedule and prevent accidents.

Step By Step

1. Crate train your dog.

2. Put your dog on a regular feeding schedule.

3. Watch your dog every minute, or confine him to his crate.

4. Take him out every three hours and after each meal or nap, or whenever he looks like he needs to go.

5. Reward him whenever he goes in the right place and don't let him have a chance to go in the wrong place.

6. Write down the time every time he goes indoors our out.

7. Watch carefully and learn your dog's "I gotta potty" dance. Every dog is different!

If you follow this method to the letter, your dog will be housebroken in no time!