The Spring 2014 Ruffian collection from designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morias was presented Saturday morning, September 7, in the Studio at Lincoln Center. The collection named “Ingénue” was inspired by the life, times and characters of French novelist Francoise Sagan’s book, Bonjour Tristesse.
Set in St. Tropez, the novel is a dark and sordid tale chronically the complicit relationship of a father and daughter set against a serene Mediterranean backdrop, which the designers translated using vintage French lingerie colors set against midnight blues and lacquered blacks. They reflected the dynamic oppositions in the fabrics by pairing classic silk cottons with vulcanized canvas and English hand-quilted cotton with digitally printed silk.
To help the guest get into the mood of the St. Tropez, attendees were given Stetson hats which were authentic re-editions of the “Tropezien” created by John B. Stetson as an homage to France after his Air Force in WWI. The hats were sewn and shaped with the same equipment as the original.
The show opened to Pink Floyd’s “We Don’t Need No Education” with models wearing soft smoky eyes, nude lips and loose curls. The line reminiscent of the 50’s styling consisted of 31 looks of starting with softer more girlish looks with tops of French cotton floral of melon, white and pale blue on midnight blue background paired with pants of melon silk cotton and skirts of navy suede. The collection transitioned more rebellious black and white looks with an optic digital floral print duiponi dress, a motorcycle jacket of vulcanized cotton, black silk georgette blouse and a bold black and white gingham biker mini skirt. Closing the show, the looks reflected more confidence with femininity by blending the softness of the florals and the defiance of black and white with the final look being an ocean silk cotton suit with black and white optic digital print dupioni shirt. Throughout the show the models wore pointed toe flats of white with black Swiss dots and black kilties by Allaguilla for Ruffian.