Cowboys and Turbans does such a terrific job with its name, immediately conjuring up a fun, creative environment, which, however strange the titular bedfellows may seem, would serve fun, creative Mexican and Indian fusion food. But what we have here is a failed attempt. Instead of waxing too poetic in paragraphs, let me bullet a few things out.
• The long rough cut wooden plank table in one corner of the little restaurant.
• The eclectic collection of lamps tacked onto the walls and dangling off the ceiling.
• The pink and purple sari panels through which the sunlight sifts through.
• The one hour free parking.
• The size of the empanada-esque samosa, which could be a highly economical way to feed at least two children or petite adults in one go.
• The idea of putting mint in shrimp tacos.
• The brightly coloured menu which boasts “Indian Mexican Street Food.”
• The hope all of the above gives one before actually tucking into the food.
• The watery lassi.
• The waitress who, however pleasant otherwise, remarked within earshot that they were running out of tables (i.e. ‘leave, now’)
• The absurd little dish of tikka masala which accompanied the humongous samosa-on-steroids. To segment this particular dislike further, first, the masala itself tasted like it came out of a Trader Joe’s jar (read, too pasty, too thick, too sweet), and second, samosas, however fused with any other cuisine they may be, simply don’t go with tikka masala I’m afraid.
• The absence of anything resembling passable flavour in anything we ordered: shrimp tacos, fish tacos, chicken tacos, shrimp tikka masala, the lassi, and the samosas.
• The factually incorrect menu. Curries and masala are not necessarily from Goa. Biryani certainly isn’t. Neither is tofu, however appropriate to Silverlake it may be.
• Stomaching the disappointment.
All in all, an idea with a mild clatter of hooves but weak on execution.
2815 Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA
Hours: Monday-Friday 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.; 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday 10 a.m.-10 p.m.
RATING: 1 out of 5 SAMOSAS. BECAUSE, IF NOTHING ELSE, THE SAMOSAS WERE FILLING.