History was made in the Box presentation space at Lincoln Center on Saturday February 13th, 2011. A stellar knockout of a collection. Former design director of Jill Stuart, Diego Binetti, created a cohesive and imaginative collection that recalled the old-fashioned idea of Hollywood glamour with modern touches.
The collection brought to mind Busby Berkely and Studio 54 at the same time. It was Norma Shearer, Ginger Rogers, Bianca Jagger, and Leighton Meester all rolled up into one.
Shimmering lenghts of fabric embellished with ostrich fringe gave a fantastical air to slouchy tunic tops. One shoulder dresses with artfully draped dolman sleeves felt new and now. Patterned, sequinned skirts and skinny pants felt over the top, and wearable. There's something exciting about seing a collection that so directly addresses the idea of what being a woman can be: bold, romantic, and strong.
The collection's styling (by Diego Binetti and Luz Solarez) extended the idea beautifully. Smoky eyes with perfectly lacquered lips in a salmon/peachy shade can work with many skin tones. Long dark, vampy nails may not be the easiest to maintain, but they fit with the mood. The models' wrapped heads had a Gloria Swanson elegance that worked. It focuses attention on the eyes and face and the line of the neck and looked elegantly bold. The hair was done by Rodney Cutler for Cutler Salon, with makeup duties done by Wendy Karcher of Make-up Forever.
Accessories shown with the clothing were equally fantastic. Jewelled cuffs, feathered rings, metal orbs masquerading as purses, mirrored waist-cinching belts, and another bag that seemed to be made from a ram's horn alluded to an aristocratic, old world sensibility. It brought to mind hunting parties in drafty mansions decorated with animal heads. Old world, old money glamour and elegance was the tone, but it was accessible.
This was a return to something particularly missing in fashion for the last few years: an unabashedly fabulous idea that had nothing to do with living a normal day-to-day life. It showed that Mr. Binetti was cognizant of fashion history, and not afraid to look back while reaching forward.
The Binetti presentation showcased an absolutely beautiful collection that lingers in the memory like a song. This was fantasy, something you would dream to own and wear.
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