For a brief period in time, twice a year in Paris, the cognoscenti of fashion convene for the HAUTE COUTURE…the real couture, the made to measure variety that starts in the mid 5 figures and elevates stratospherically from there. Traditionally, this was the inspiration for the ready to wear collections which will follow in its heels in about 2 weeks’ time. Times have changed and the calendars no longer allow for the influence unless a particular house also does ready to wear. Nevertheless, this is the time that these brands show off what they are made of …especially with the ateliers that are available to them.
So today we bring you Amy Winehouse, well it is Amy Winehouse as seen through the eyes of Jean Paul Gaultier. Yes, he is the enfant terrible but he is also wildly imaginative when it comes to show inspirations. Where everyone else who presents shows of great spectacle usually choose to use elaborate surroundings, Gaultier hones in on the clothes as after all is said and done, this is about clothes not where the clothes are shown.
In his paean to the late Ms. Winehouse, Mr. Gaultier presents her in her glory days of her much abbreviated life. With piled on hair, thick gash of eyeliner and a hint of a lace bra, the couture version of Amy Winehouse vamped down that runway in signature Jean Paul Gaultier. The entire DNA and all the elements that make up the vocabulary of Gaultier were visible but the problem was that sometimes you had to dissect the look to find it.
Mr. Gaultier is nothing if not prolific and quick to show a visual anecdote if not joke. Here was no exception and the abilities of the Gaultier ateliers were pus to the test as they are every haute Couture season. Tailoring and trenches and sinuous gowns and dresses ruled and then there were the Gaultier flourishes which were incorporated into the more complex looks i.e.; the corsets, bras and bandeaus.
Couture is the high priestess of fashion and yet he uses the occasion to also parade out his lingerie collection that he does for La Perla which for some might be considered sacrilege but for him it is just more show time as it is so intertwined into the DNA of Gaultier. Then again, an haute couture baseball jacket might be considered the hautest of haute!
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