For a brief period in time, twice a year in Paris, the cognoscenti of fashion convene for the HAUTE COUTURE…the real couture, the made to measure variety that starts in the mid 5 figures and elevates stratospherically from there. Traditionally, this was the inspiration for the ready to wear collections which will follow in its heels in about 2 weeks’ time. Times have changed and the calendars no longer allow for the influence unless a particular house also does ready to wear. Nevertheless, this is the time that these brands show off what they are made of …especially with the ateliers that are available to them.
Having been through this collection several times, it is apparent that Mr. Valli has given careful consideration as to how to handle the couture versus his regular collection. He has most definitely distinguished the two as separate entities with a clear vision.
Haute Couture is generally not for the very young as the prices of these garments climb to otherwise unheard of heights in comparison to ready to wear. With this in mind, Giambattista Valli has skewed the couture to a slightly older client without losing sight of the brand’s DNA and vocabulary. This collection is a bit less humorous or light hearted but nevertheless does not stray from who the Valli client is which was a tremendously wise decision .
This being said, the Haute Couture collection is exquisitely rendered and draws upon Mr. Valli’s experiences, of both real life and inspirational (Ungaro, Dior, Balenciaga), with various ateliers, not to mention his resume of designers where he was employed before his eponymous collection. The “hand” of the collection is delicate and feminine but certainly not boring nor sweet. This is for the chic lady who is younger or young at heart and that understands true workmanship. Most certainly, this is a collection for someone who goes places and does things rather than lunch as the grouping is filled with magnificent gowns and dresses, most of which are more suitable for after 5. My single criticism was the amount of transparency but I know that this is a simple issue to resolve once the client has made her selections.
The bottom line is that Giambattista Valli is a welcome addition to the Haute Couture.
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