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Patrons at local cafe in Chiny were treated to 24 year old Orval by
brewmaster Jean-Marie Rock, second from left. Photo by Charlie Papazian
After our first dinner Orval brewmaster, Jean-Marie Rock politely, yet insistently suggested we venture for beer at a hillside café in the tiny nearby village of Chiny. It was here I was to have my epiphany.
Jean-Marie asked for his usual fresh Orval. Roger Mussche, Belgian brewing consultant, of course inquired about the age of Orval. The conversation was in Flemish and more animated than the usual ordering of beer. Finally the owner/waiter/bartender/server smiled, lifted his index finger in a gesture of “hold on just one minute, I’ll be back.” He disappeared down a stairwell.
Two minutes later, the owner merged with a prideful case (!) of 24-year-old Orval.
Between the three of us and several very fortunate local regulars we sampled our way through these and a few 6 year old, 1 year old and fresher bottles of Orval. The differences were astounding.
With grinning sarcasm Jean Marie would explain, “To make beer is simple… why make it so complicated…Americans want to make beer making so complicated…” It seemed a muffled bit of wisdom, I foggily comprehended. The genius of it all.
Photo left: Jean-Marie Rock enjoys every moment of pouring a 24 year old bottle of Orval. Photo by Papazian.
Orval makes about 80,000 hectoliters (about 68,000 U.S. barrels) of one beer (actually two – but more on that later) each year. One bottle. One packaging line. One label. One recipe. One schedule. A production brewer’s “easy street.” Quite remarkable in the world of beer. But the real story extends.
The genius of Orval unfolded in the bars, cafes and restaurants throughout the area. These cafés – literally stash hundreds of cases of Orval in their cellars. Organized by release date they await request from the knowing and discerning beer drinkers who will knowledgeably ask for certain ages of Orval.
What is the genius behind all this fuss about one beer brand?
Next: The secret ingredient that’s not so secret.
Also see: Orval Trappist genius in Belgium’s Golden Valley
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