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Musseling In – a fine winter activity

Mussels; delicious, delectable sea mussels.  Their sweet, delicate, coral colored meat just waiting to be served up in white wine or with linguine ... lots of French bread to sop up the juices of course.  But they are so expensive, particularly when you consider that most of what you are paying for is shell.  

Well, if you are fortunate enough to live within easy reach of the sea, then go to it.  These tasty morsels are waiting for you in their briny beads.  All you need is a California fishing license, tennis shoes to keep your feet from being cut by the rocks, a claw hammer or tire iron and something to put them in.  Oh yes, if you want to enjoy a few them right there at the beach, something to build a fire, a big old pot, some French bread and of course, beer.  A change of clothes would be smart because you will get wet! 

Now hold on!  Before you go, I must dispel some dangerous Mussel myths. 

First, there is an old wives tale that mussels are safe to eat in months with “R’s”, hmmmm, let’s see, is that right?  Perhaps it’s the months without “R’s.”  Don’t rely on that because it can change from year to year.  There is only one way to be absolutely sure ... 

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CALL THE SHELLFISH QUARENTEEN HOT LINE AT 1-800 553-4133

Another myth:  Eating mussels out of season can make you sick.  WRONG!  Eating mussels out of season can make you dead!  However, gathered in the right season, they are perfectly safe and delectable and we living here on the coast in Northern California have easy access to a plentiful supply of them. 

Why are they toxic for part of the year?  There is a gludge of little critters lying on the sea floor called Dinoflagellates, that, when it comes to the surface where shellfish like mussels can ingest them, it renders them toxic.   In the rest of the world this is a periodic phenomenon known as The Red Tide.  Off the coast of California however, it happens in the summer every year.  When the cold current from the north sweeps down along our coast, and the warm southern current comes up, their meeting causes great under sea turbulence which brings the Dinoflagellates to the surface, the mussels ingest them and become quite toxic.  This is usually in the summer only, ie. the months without “R’s” but don’t count on it.  Other things can cause great turbulence as well.  That’s why you should always call the HOT LINE before going musseling. 

Each person with a valid fishing license is allowed to gather ten pounds of mussels in the shell.

Anyone 16 years old or older will need a license.

Regular license ....... $44.85
One day .....................14.30
Low income seniors ... 6.70 

For more information about California fishing regulations see the California Department of Fish and Game website.  

Now that we have our mussels, let’s get cooking.  Mussels, like oysters, are great just steamed or grilled.  There are also myriad other ways to prepare them.  This is an excellent and simple recipe.

 Mussels with White Wine and Roasted Garlic

You will need about 1 ½ to 2 pounds in the shell per person.  Scrub the shells well and set aside.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium size yellow onion, chopped small
6 to 8 cloves of roasted garlic, crushed 

A pinch of dry mixed herbs – (Italian seasoning)
A pinch of dry hot chili flakes, or to taste
1 or 2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

1 cup dry white wine
¼ cup inexpensive cream Sherry

 ¼ cup Chiffonade of fresh basil  
About 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill weed 

Salt and fresh coarse ground black pepper to taste 

Heat the olive oil in a large heavy skillet and gently sauté the onion and garlic until the onion is soft, pinkish and translucent but not yet beginning to brown.  Add the Italian seasoning, chili flakes and chopped tomatoes and continue to cook over moderate heat until the tomatoes are hot through and have begun to release some of their juices.  Add the wines and bring to a boil.  Then add the mussels, cover with a tight fitting lid and cook, shaking the pan frequently, until the mussels have opened.  Remove the lid, add the basal and dill weed and gently stir about.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Go easy on the salt.  Remember, these guys have spent their lives living in salt water. Pile onto a serving plate with the juices and serve with a good sourdough baguette.  A nice California Chinon Blanc would be a good accompaniment and you couldn’t go wrong with this one from Dry Creek Vineyards

Here are some more mussel recipes you may enjoy.

 Oh yes, before you head out to the coast, check the tide tables.  If it’s high tide, most of the mussels will be under water.

, SF Food Examiner

Geraldine Duncann is a well-published writer living in ...

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