Moto-scribes head up the Pacific Coast

The day broke overcast and drizzly and I hoped I would not be kicking myself for not bringing my full-face helmet. We were getting set to start the first day of a four-day motorcycle ride from the Los Angeles area--Venice Beach, specifically--to San Francisco. I hadn't been able to fit my helmet into my luggage so I counted on the forecast, which was for clear weather, and planned to use an EagleRider half-helmet. And now that looked like a bad decision.

But hey, this is Southern California, and it's common to have fog early that burns off. Only it didn't burn off yesterday. Still, when I asked Chris McIntyre, President of EagleRider, the organizers of this tour, if I ought to just go ahead and put on rain gear he said no, we'd be fine.

Turns out he was right. The fog never did burn off, and it did drip on us periodically during the day, but we never did need rain gear. Warm clothes was an entirely different matter. But I knew enough to layer up.

We headed out, crawling through the city traffic, reaching the Pacific Coast Highway, and then moving only a little faster until we got out of the LA metroplex. Riding along the coast is a much better experience if you can see the ocean but much of the time we couldn't.

The first really familiar name I noticed was the turn-off for Topanga Canyon and then we were in Mailbu. Obviously a lot of money here judging from the large houses on the hillsides, many of them suspended more over the air than planted in the ground.

Finally, about the time we reached La Piedra State Park, there was a high hill that tapered down to the water and poked a finger into the ocean, with the top of the hill playing peekaboo with clouds. And there was the first patch of blue sky. Continuing north, surfers dotted the swells close to shore and dolphins played further out, but it got foggy again, foggier than ever, and raindrops dotted my glasses.

Softail first day appraisal

OK, enough about the weather for now. This is a report on a motorcycle ride, not a weather report. What about the bike?

I'm on a Heritage Softail and I have to say I like it better than any other Harley I've ever ridden. The first big surprise was how little it shakes at idle. It also fit me really well. I've been on Harleys where I could hardly reach the brake or gear shift but this one is a very easy, comfortable reach. Also, the seat is wide and well-padded, so three plusses for the Softail.

We pulled off at an overlook that was identified as Point Mugu, where the highway runs through a deep cut in the hillside. Sealed off to the west is what remains of the old road which must have hung suspended over the water. You can see why they made the cut but you have to yearn for that old road and the thrills it once certainly gave travelers.

We were finally picking up some speed now and the next surprise about the Softail was how rough it runs at 65 or 70 mph. Most bikes that vibrate at low speeds get smoother as you go faster, but not this one. I also don't care for the gearing. Sixth is almost too high and I frequently had to downshift. And in the meantime, it doesn't seem to have all that much power in top gear. Those have to count as two minuses.

Following lunch on Stearns Wharf, in Santa Barbara, we went just a bit further north and then cut inland. Look at the map in the slide show and you'll see how that route is the shortcut to a big L on Highway 101. Significantly, though, it meant heading inland. We climbed the coastal range, which blogs the fog off the ocean from moving further inland, and as we neared the top there were times you couldn't even see the rider in front of you--and thank goodness for the lines on the highway. This is backyard for Rider Magazine's Donya Carlson, and she said she had never seen the fog this thick. And you know what? Riding in fog is pretty cool, as long as you go slowly.

We hit the top, though, and there it was! Sun! Blue sky! Time to rejoice.

After a sidetrip along an old, narrow two-lane, we stopped for a bit at Cold Spring Tavern, which Chris tells us is one of the last remaining stagecoach stops in the western U.S. A very rustic and very attractive spot that is apparently a favorite of bikers. Then back on the main road and into Solvang and a stop for gas. Solvang is a town settled by the Dutch and has a lot of windmills. Some of them actually look like they're doing work. By now it was plenty hot and all the warm layers I'd put on were way too much. Time to peel some.

After reconnecting with 101 it was just time to burn some miles. We could see the crest of the coastal range and the clouds trying to creep over those hills. The hills got lower and lower as we moved north and eventually we were not in the clouds but under them. Good-bye sunshine. And now it was definitely getting cold. We stopped to layer up again. None of this should be taken to imply that we weren't having a great time, by the way. Hey, we're riding motorcycles in new places, and that beats a day in the office every time.

Madonna

At last we reached San Luis Obispo, our day's destination, and the Madonna Inn. No, the name has nothing to do with the singer, it's the name of the folks who built the place. The story is that they couldn't decide on a decor so they made every room a different decor. Each room is named and many of them are mind-blowing. "Romance" in particular is spectacular. Unfortunately for me, I was randomly assigned what is for me the most unremarkable room of the bunch. Named "Rocky Mountain," it is a designer's concept of the myriad actual Rocky Mountain cabins I've seen. I do live in Colorado, after all. Someone else might find it striking but for me it's totally ordinary.

Beyond the individual rooms, the Madonna Inn is itself a total one-of-a-kind. We're not in Kansas any more, Toto. Rather than even try to describe it I'll just point you to the slideshow at left so you can see it yourself.

We had dinner tonight at a family-run sausage and jerky plant. Yes, at the plant, and we learned more about making jerky than we ever thought we'd know. Ray's Own Brand caters to discriminating clientele who are willing to pay a bit more for better quality. They served us a feast and Shawn Fechter, EagleRider's head of touring operations made the point that you can eat in restaurants all over California, but "only with EagleRider do you get a gourmet meal in a garage."

Thus ends Day One of our ride. Tomorrow is Big Sur. We're really hoping for sunshine.

Related articles:
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Moto-scribes head up the Pacific Coast 
A fabulous day riding Big Sur
Rain brings out Yosemite beauty for motorcyclists 
Golden Gate Bridge is finale to motorcycle tour