It was a haute couture crowd on Sunday at the Ralph Rucci, Spring 2014 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week runway show. Fans included Martha Stewart, Cindy Adams and Andre Leon Talley, among others.
Models adorned the runway at Lincoln Center in New York City in a scaled down palette of taupe, blacks, and whites. I asked Rucci backstage about his color choices for this collection. “I wanted to challenge myself and not have a huge burst of color like last year. I went back to a palette where I can play with proportion for more success. Color would have made it too much.”
Rucci says he designs for the intellectual, sensual woman. “I have to stimulate her and the people around her. I need to create undetectable, but extraordinary things for her to command attention, and, at the same time, be discreet.”
His Russian style, taupe embroidered, laser cut coat is anything but discreet. He referenced sculptor Louise Nevelson, known for her monochromatic 3-D wood pieces for this cutting edge look. Also stunning, a black crepe and tulle dress, and a playful white feathered dress. Rucci created 64 uber-luxe designs for the spring collection.
Ralph Rucci has been wowing runways for 32 years. I asked him what stands out for him in the collection. “I am most proud of my opening look, a bi-level blouse and tuxedo pant. It sets the tempo with its simplicity and power, followed by my closing piece, a black bugle bead apron dress, which is a statement of much intensity.”
Here’s to another 32 Ralph! And ladies who don’t lunch, he is starting a more affordable knitwear line to hook you in. As if you need to be baited.`