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Last chance until the afterlife for Catonsville, Md's Candle Light Inn!

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Catonsville's Candle Light Inn just received a zoning variance to become a funeral home this week. No word on how long the place will remain a restaurant, so you'd better hurry! The historic location has been a restaurant since 1925.

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The original house and surrounding former farmland was known as Five Oaks Estate. It was built in the mid 1800's. The place started offering tea and light fare, then became known for traditional Maryland food. The current owners mix Maryland with American favorites.

Dinner started out with hot corn bread squares and whipped butter.

I got a bowl of seafood bisque -- I was sharing -- and it was a huge pasta bowl of soup! Thankfully, their seafood bisque is quite tasty: rich, well seasoned, lots of crab meat. But for sure, you could make a meal out of it.

Since this was an old-school place, I figured it'd be good to order an old-school appetizer . . . and I was right! Chicken liver mousse was a true, creamy mousse served with a lemony rillette, poached pear and spicy compote. It was a well-composed dish.

Pot roast style beef short ribs in red wine were pretty tender and fatty, served with carrots, celery, baby potatoes and topped with horseradish cream sauce and fresh minced chives. The red wine sauce was maybe a touch salty.

I also tried a special, roast duck with green beans. That dish needed to be dressed up a bit, both in concept and presentation.

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