Katsuya has quite the reputation about Los Angeles and, upon walking in, one wonders if it’s because of the food or for the décor, which borders on pretentious. However, since the seats are comfortable and the bathrooms are clean, it probably doesn’t matter. You can get high-grade, immaculate sushi and rolls here, but then, you can get that cheaper at a lot of other places. Here it’s best to try some of the house specialties like miso-marinated catfish, or Kobe filet with foie gras, or, as an appetizer, the melt-in-your-mouth ahi-stuffed eggplant. If money is no object (and it better not be if you plan on dining here) try one of Chef Uechi Katsuya’s sampling menus, or one of the nightly prix fixe dinners. Everything is truly delicious and the service is impeccable. Explore the menu and the locations online at www.sbe.com/katsuya/.
September 6, 2010