“It's like, how much more black could this be? And the answer is none. None more black.” –Nigel Tufnel
Spinal Tap’s “Smell the Glove” notwithstanding, Johnnie Walker has made their famous standard Black Label more black.
A limited release in the States that started in October, Johnnie Walker Double Black is the creation of Master Blender Jim Beveridge. Available at Southland specialty liquor shops such as Beverage Warehouse through the holidays, gifts and after-feast digestifs are strong options for this new style from the centuries-old Walker blended Scotch whisky. Once it’s gone, it will return to airport duty-free shops where it originated a year ago.
The Double Black travel box is similar to regular Black Label, so look carefully before grabbing one off the shelf. Unlike Black, however, DB is of a bottle darkly. The suggested retail price on Double Black is $40, a mere six dollars more than the SRP of Black.
Beveridge says “this [Double Black] distinctive blend delivers an even bolder smokiness with a deep intensity featuring rich dried fruits and creamy vanilla flavors.” Edward “Dirt” Adams, our local whisky master who led a private group of writers through a tasting paired with the delicious dishes at the new Son of a Gun seafood joint on 3rd, claims DB “changes with your moods,” and that Beveridge “took what people love about Black Label and amped it up.” To my palate, though, it doesn’t go to eleven—rather DB adds a subwoofer and killer bass line to Black Label. It’s much smoother going down, with a resonant sustain that goes on after you’ve had a bite. The same smoke and nutty, woodsy flavors are there, but they’re deeper, groovier.
At a Walker-sponsored dinner tasting, Double Black was paired with the following dishes:
- Benton’s Country Ham, cornbread and honey butter
- Peel & eat shrimp boil, lime mustard sauce
- Fried chicken sandwich, spicy B&B pickle slaw, rooster aioli
- Roasted escolar, truffled pomme puree, chicken jus
Like Derek Smalls, Double Black held the food together just right. Better than lukewarm water, even.
All Walker whiskies are created using a proprietary blend of single malt Scotches. In DB’s case, the emphasis is on casks from smaller distilleries on the westerncoast of Scotland.
Double Black makes an excellent bridge from the lower end styles, Red and Black, to the higher expressions, Green, Gold, and the rarified Blue. It's one small step up in price, one giant leap in taste.
Check out the slideshow under the image of the bottle on the top left to see a few dishes at Son of a Gun with Walker.
Disclosure: Dinner at Son of a Gun, a bottle of Black Label and Double Black plus taster glasses and coasters were comped by Johnnie Walker.
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