The Nose in Yosemite on El Capitan is known for the many speed records that have been set by various 2-team climbers that have included Hans Florine, Alex Honnold, Dean Potter, the late Sean Leary, and Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter. Jes Meiris is the latest female to set the speed record of the Nose climbing solo, and she has beat out the previous record of Jacqueline Florine back in 2002 by four days. Jes Meiris climbed the Nose in just 27 hours, leaving at 8:00 p.m. on June 7 and finishing on June 8, 2014.
Meiris had planned on doing the Nose solo for about a year before the attempt, and she knew she was going to try it without sleeping and hauling extra gear. “I wanted to climb it solo in a push, without hauling or sleeping, and I knew that if I was successful I would break a record, but would have done it either way,” Meiris stated in an E-mail to Rock and Ice.
During the record breaking ascent, Meiris took two falls, but both were safe according to her. Despite the fact the falls were safe, any fall while climbing accelerates the heartbeat quite a bit. Her second fall definitely got the heartbeat going as she was at the base of the Boot Flake and a nut popped while the piece below her ripped which broke the rock and sent her 20 feet below a bolt.
Meiris feels a great deal of her successful ascent was due to the support of her friends and family. She received support via text message and that kept her energy levels high and motivation up. And when she reached the summit at 11:00 p.m. on June 8, her friend April was waiting for her with some food, beer and a hug.
Whether or not Meiris will return to attempt the Nose again is yet to be determined, but she is confident she could do it faster. But for now, she can bask in the fantastic accomplishment of breaking another record for the Nose. Congratulations to Jes Meiris!
For more information on Jes Meiris’ climb, please read Jes Meiris Beats Female Speed Record of the Nose by 4 Days, posted by Laren Cyphers on the Rock and Ice Web site.