After the one off collection executed by the immensely talented Christian Lacroix, this latest Haute Couture collection for the house of Schiaparelli was one of the most hotly and eagerly anticipated of the season. Besides the waiting for this collection there was also the game of who would be named as creative director/ designer and that momentous position went to Marco Zanini.
I always thought that Mr. DellaValle was quite smart but alas that can be proven as an incorrect t assumption when viewing this collection especially in the aftermath of the Lacroix tour de force.as for Ms. Khelfa, well I am not quite sure of her credentials as I am always hesitant about situations like hers. It brings to mind a similar analogy that even if you stand in a garage you can’t become a car!
As far as the track record of Mr. Zanini, I was never a huge fan but in this case I was hoping that he would assume a more “adhering” pretense for the collection but alas, that too fell apart upon seeing this collection. My take away here was that he hooked onto the veiled face as his referential point and then hooked onto Yohji Yamamoto and went from there ! An antidote might have been to learn about Elsa and infuse some of her humor into the collection instead of trying to reinvent the wheel with an old warhorse of a name!
The prints are pedestrian and yes maybe a bit retro in feel but the clothes... yes the clothes are just a big who cares and what for. Yes, haute couture is not exactly based on need and most certainly a key factor is having the wallet to support one’s lust for clothes but why or how do these qualify on any account.
To be honest, the collection is a huge let down and an ever bigger disappointment. If this can reinvigorate the sleeping brand, then, all I can say is that maybe the entire fashion business has lost its mind and it surely its way.
p.s. I Think Suzy may have seen a different collection that this