WHOA! Let’s get this straight right from the get go. For his freshman outing at the brand, Marco Zanini presented this highly generic and not even mildly referenced collection which to my eye was … well... meh! To say that Suzy Muchless and I saw different collections is an understatement. This season he not only hit the DNA button but he slammed it with a leaden hand and maybe he fell on it! Me thinks that the ES was a nice touch …once! The hats would have been fab if they were not on the head of EVERY model, but it was the heart that was most successfully played out albeit not every time!
This go round provided us with Elsa Schiaparelli circa the decade of the 40’s and is complete with supersized broad shoulders, chubbies and over exaggerated dressmaking. The clothes suffered really by being direct copies rather than inspired by or referenced to and that is an invitation to disaster. .. Not to mention we went a wee bit overboard with the very Schiaparelli inspired accessories. .. Ya think? Let’s call this a visual gluttony of sorts. What comes to mind is “what she couldn’t wear, she carried!”
I understand that the designer is still trying to gain his footing and put his imprimatur on the brand but hell, he didn’t have to do a 180. Honestly, it is a lot of overdone and over conceived clothes. Haute Couture is all about perfection in the details and the exquisite manufacture of a garment but my eyes saw a lot of sloppily made pieces that really didn’t live up to the hype of the season. Please take note here that even if the clothes were flawlessly designed, poorly rendered pieces are ... well ... inexcusable!
Okay, so calming down here, I can say that there were some beautiful dresses albeit retro in feeling and some beautiful embellishments but overall this is much more of a costume wardrobe for a period movie than it is a collection of clothes for the so called modern 21st century couture client. The happy medium, when it comes to the overall timbre of the collection has not yet been found … or at least I hope it hasn’t been found, so I remain hopeful. What strikes me is that when YSL did the 40s collection and everyone was up in arms over it, the clothes still retained a slick chic about them as was the case with Ungaro as well but that has not happened here save for maybe 5 pieces. Then if I really wrack my brain here I see an awful of what reminded me of Gaultier who might have been referencing Schiaparelli in his collections expect JPG did it better!
Well, all I can say is Bon Chance Marco! Better luck next time!