Brown is back at Salvatore Ferragamo, so much so that one might say brown is the new black at this revered house. Massimiliano Giornetti unleashed and exposed just what he has always been capable of and that is a truly divine collection for men. This season the clothes scream slick, tasteful and fashion. These are not the pinstripes of bankers and brokers and this is not the brown of Buster Brown!
The outerwear is sublime; some of it might be a take on the Castelbejac of the 70s/80s, in particular his blanket coats but that is just a reference as this incarnation is fresh and very current. There is an elongated varsity jacket that just is beyond lust worthy and should appeal to fashionphiles of any age. The return of the safari/bush jacket is welcomed here with open arms and Mr. Giornetti manages to use that button thru flap pocket with great ease and never makes them look heavy or clumsy. There is also the pervasive presence of the “jean” jacket and riffs on the pea coat, all done to perfection no matter the fabrication.
Proposing the tightly belted or cinched waist is chalked off to a runway flourish and really does not distract from the lean silhouettes. Even the cropped blazer is hugely appealing as opposed to the much abbreviated shapes that had swamped the runways for too many seasons. One must also take note of the beautifully lightweight layering that runs as a common thread throughout the collection.People who want fashionable clothes, men or women, do not want to look like fashion victims, they prefer clothes that make them shine in a most favorable light and not as a some kind of sideshow attraction.
The take away here is that there are lessons to be learned here if you are wise enough to see them and comprehend them. Massimiliano Giornetti can deliver and I am sure will continue to do so for many more years to come.