ON THE COUNT OF 3 LET THE GAMES BEGIN!! 1 – 2 – 3! Here was Jean Paul Gaultier doing what he does and living up to his reputation as showman, master designer and enfant terrible.
That monsieur was fixed on vampires matters not to me as I can overlook the makeup etc. but what you can’t overlook here is that JPG is a designer who knows who he is and how to please his clients as well as retaining and showing off his sense of humor. As was told to me many many years that JPG is a master tailor and the simplest looking suits were the most divine, whether an all-black with a spencer and hint of links or the balls to wall beaded pin stripe. Then of course there was his notion of a jogging suit which came out in its many manifestations with a grey flannel leading the lot in chic.
JPG always seem to usually infuse some old Hollywood and this season was no different with the draped hood, opulent furs, the dresses with capelets and some of that “Austrian shade” draping that has become a signature. The vocabulary of JPG was spoken fluidly with lace anoraks, a show stopping ombre beaded gown, the chicest of suits in hounds tooth and some arresting gowns as well as isolated pieces of either amazing technical feats or kleig light glamour. In essence this was all good… well not all but just a wonderful showing of talent and fashion. The millefeuille dresses and accents were amazing and to me the best as a collar on an all-black reefer coat ensemble.
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Conchita liverwurst and Ana Cleveland impersonating her mother but for me that was a yawn and expected but I was in love the gold chain pieces and yes the big link hoop skirt was amazing! While the gimmicks and shticks are all fun, I sort of miss the times that JPG shows off that wildly soigne side that he showed when he was at Hermes and when he first began the couture.
The bottom line here is that JPG is a designer who designs and that what the Wangs, the Raffies, the Nickys etc; all are lacking is his humor and the ability to laugh at themselves and the business they are involved in… oops I forgot... they need some help in the talent department as well. It is my advice to those rubes to pay attention and take a lesson from a master rather than try to convince the world they wrote the book on fashion and by the way their book has a single chapter, JPG’s book has 10 volumes.
Take a hint learn from example!