In a case of never say never and I can’t seem to see out my windows as there are so many pigs flying by... Riccardo Tisci has sent a fall collection that finally comes close to living up to Le grand Hubert! In a complete turnaround, and I do mean COMPLETE, Mr. Tisci has sent out a collection that really requires no explanation and no rationale. From exit one I had a flashback to YSL and the eponymous designer as well or in other words the glory days of Paris fashion.
What one must hypothesize is why! Is it possible the king of sweatshirts and t shirts has turned in his sportswear stylist license in exchange for designer creds? Is it possible that he decided or possibly the mother ship issued an edict to deliver clothes befitting a fabled brand? This is one of the strangest moments that can only be rivaled by that of the Hedi Slimane’s premiere Saint Laurent collection .. the only difference being is that one was heresy and the other one an homage of sorts.
Here’s the deal, if you have no idea what I am speaking about, then it is best to move but if you “hear” me then it is time to sit up and take notice of this moment in fashion. This may be one of the rare times that I and the supposed fashion cognoscenti agree on the outcome of a collection from this house under the tenure of Tisci. What will also be food for thought is whether or not this is the future of the brand or just a fluke or a ploy?
Okay, so bottom line... is it one of greatest collections ever to walk a runway? No! Was I loving everything I saw? No! It is a moment when a designer shows his chops and whether or not every piece was stellar is not the issue; the tenor of the collection is sophisticated and urbane and even chic which cannot be any further away from previous reactions to previous collections. He employed discreet flourishes and he slapped you with grand gestures... did they all work? ..No! I would be a total ass if I believed that every exit of a show could be 100% perfection but I must tip my hat when the appropriate moment comes. I tip my hat to you Riccardo Tisci!
PS now I am eagerly anticipating the next move for the house to read the others’ reactions... Rarely if ever has that happened with any collection under the tutelage of Tisci. Will this perceived as selling out??