Here is the thing about writing reviews that is always a sticking point. When people read then they expect the writer either to fall on the floor from the ecstasy of it all or throwing in the towel and carrying on about how ugly a collection is but Haute Couture is a totally different species from the usual runway presentation. Enough of that and now it is time to get on with it…..
What I love about Giambattista Valli is that the man knows what the meaning of couture is and by that it is to say he knows is way around the ateliers and why the clothes are only related to the ready to wear and not kissing cousins. Many would call it brand extension if one is into that sort of chat.
Giamba, if I may, is brilliant at reading the times and one realizes that he loves his women and he loves the clothes. He actually wants his ladies to be beautiful and that is a novelty known to very few these days. While I may not always agree with every aspect of the collection I can understand it and I can rationalize it and attach its significance to the designer and his body of work. I may not see the proportion as he does but I also know that haute couture is a suggestion as the clothes are sold direct to the client and she maybe adjusts to her own personal quirks and specifications. In essence, yes I think some of the opening dresses are bit too short but there are nonetheless exquisitely done, just not to my personal taste. This whole concept is contrary to let’s say Dior or Versace when I might be pressed into saying the clothes are just downright ugly or unattractive.
Once the very short segment passes, we get to see a beautiful assortment of gloriously rendered dresses that live up the terminology of Haute Couture. This meaning that the clothes reflect the vocabulary and DNA of this rarefied aspect of fashion. The presentation is flawless, the colors superb, the utilization of what is available in terms of ateliers is in keeping with the art of the couture and all of that is what makes the collection a success and far more than just an excuse in comparison to what else is being passed off as supposedly modern couture … why bother, just do ready to wear and call it day and we will all have less to find fault with!!!!!!!
In the end, I tip my hat to Giambattista Valli who unapologetically and consistently delivers beautiful clothes and designs with his ladies in mind as well as what he designs for ... in this case Haute Couture… you do it proud!