My question is simply… have we become used to the particular vocabulary from this gifted designer? There is no question that words such as distinctive, architectural, slick and edgy come to mind when one views any of this young man’s collections. What is wildly interesting, if you delve backwards, is that he has remained so very true to what he started years ago. His DNA is an acquired taste, his vocabulary fluent in the language of modern and a 21st century vision of fashion and his perseverance has served him very well.
So, does one think the eye adjusts after we have seen it repetitively or do you think that maybe we weren’t ready to see what he saw long before the rest. No question that from very sight, one immediately knew that Gareth Pugh was a keeper, a great talent in an ocean of moderately talented designers. If his time has not arrived with this collection then he must be a season away from huge success and recognition.
The molded torsos, the shaped bodies, the architecture that is specifically his and the innovation he brings to the runway every season is all part and parcel of this designer’s signature. The palette is simple, Goth has slipped away and a sophistication has emerged; the old caterpillar/butterfly thing. Yes, the theatrics are there but they are not just cheap tricks or as attention begging or as shocking as they once were once upon a time. The designer has matured and so has the collection. This is meant in the most flattering of ways and certainly not to suggest that he now designs for women of a certain age.
Gareth Pugh has developed and evolved into a designer of note; the question is just how long will it take for the world to really notice that he doesn’t fit a mold yet rates as first class.