First things first, BRAVO to Ms. Yanina who did a complete 180 on the collection and turned her eponymous collection into a thing of beauty as opposed to a group of clothes based on Russian folkloric costumes, iconography and imagery. You are to be commended and congratulated!
As a whole, the grouping is sophisticated and very beautiful but a bit heavy on the embroidered on tulle /soufflé look. There is always room to improve and based on the 6 months of progress, the next collection will be a 5 star moment. I think some of the dresses are extremely beautiful and delicate and actually would be helped with a nude lining rather than the total transparency. The colorful pieces are less serious yet equally impressive but I think there needs to be more thought given to the shapes as it is not quite fully distilled. One might extract a sort of 60’s retro vibe from these. The same might apply to a green encrusted cocktail dress with the deep u-neck and the slick tight to the body black gown with point d’esprit inset; the pieces are orphans but should have more “sisters” and again the balance has not been fully formulated but I am confident that there will be a corrected proportion in the future.
I think that when showing couture as opposed to ready to wear, the staging is extremely important as each exit must be given star treatment as opposed to being shown in groupings on the runway. The intricacy and design nuances must be appreciated with no distraction from another creations; each piece to be viewed as a single jewel.
Standout pieces fro me were the green embroidered deco gown, the severe black gown with inset, the gazar blazer over slim pants and the beige on beige gown with puss sleeved satin cover up.
Now that the collection has taken such great strides towards becoming honest to goodness genuine Haute Couture, Ms. Yanina must develop a signature of her own aside from the distracting kerchiefs which I know are an homage to her roots but they have gotta go. I am looking forward to the next collection not as I would never have thought that this progress would happen as it did for this season.